GEAR FOR SPJ
An expert guide to the correct tackle for this enjoyable technique
Expert advice on exciting method.
Slow Pitch Jigging (SPJ) is mistakenly seen as involving over-complicated methods and ultra-light tackle better suited to fishing a village pond. In reality it’s a much simpler, highly enjoyable way to fish that can be easily mastered. It requires the correct tackle and an understanding of the theory behind the method. Most anglers are familiar with the vertical or speed jig, which is generally streamlined to sink fast and be retrieved quickly. A slow jig has a different action that requires another technique. Being moulded with more weight towards the centre and a bias to one side, in freefall a slow jig acts differently to a fast-sinking speed jig. When allowed to fall freely, a slow jig slides and flutters erratically, seemingly taking forever to sink.
Understanding that it is the jig’s movement, especially in freefall, that attracts the bite is critical. For a jig to fall freely, it’s important that you limit any restrictions on this movement and, for this, specific terminal tackle and high-quality braid line are vital. I’ve seen slow jigs sold pre-rigged with heavy swivels or hooks and assist cord that wouldn’t be out of place on an 800g speed jig; this impairs the jig’s movement and effectiveness.
RIGGING THE JIG
Slow jigs are rigged using a twin-hook assist attached to the top using a small (usually size 6mm) split ring. Some are rigged top and bottom because there is an argument that a trailing bottom assist will lengthen the horizontal freefall. However, an additional hook increases the chances of snagging on any structure.
SPJ assist hooks are rigged with a tough but low diameter cord to offer minimum resistance and to allow the hooks to flail around freely as the jig moves. Shaped to offer the optimum hook-up rate, the hooks are made of lightweight materials, such as Tuff Wire, which is incredibly strong considering its fine gauge wire. Depending on jig’s size and the target fish, size 2/0 to 5/0 are the most popular for UK fishing. Sizes vary among suppliers, so take a look at the hook sizing chart on Jigabite’s website (www.jigabite.co.uk).
ere are plenty of ready-made assists, but chose from a reputable brand producing SPJ tackle. All components ) pictured below) can be bought separately.
RODS & REELS
Specialist SPJ rods are generally 6ft 3in to 6ft 8in long, in either one or two pieces with a butt joint just above the reel seat.
ey are very light and slow tapered, bending all the way through to allow the angler to work and pitch the jig. Being built from tough materials makes them deceptively strong and sensitive.
Match the rod rating to the size of your jigs. As a rough guide for UK fishing, use power-1 for 80-160g jigs, power-2 for 120-250g jigs, power-3 for those 200g and above, and power-4 in areas of the UK where the water is deeper than 60 metres or in stronger current. Different manufacturers state a wide range of jig weights for each power band.
Some rods are built with spiral wrapped guides. Here the first guide is uppermost on top of the rod in line with the reel, but, moving down the rod, the guides spiral around the blank resulting in the tip ring pointing downward. is prevents the braid catching on the tip and last guides when working the jig.
A new neutral spiral guide train (pictured right) has been developed by the Temple Reef company. e guides spiral one way and then the other to bring the braid to the centre of the reel on retrieve so assisting with line-lay.
SPJ ideally requires a baitcasting reel (right) because maintaining jig control using a spinning reel is difficult. Most SPJ rods only take baitcasters, with the SPJ reels being very light to keep the set-up as refined as possible. Choose a reel with a high gear ratio (say 6:1), a narrow spool and strong drag. Star-drags are fine for the UK but lever-drags add a bit more control. Both left and right-hand configurations are available.
LINE & LEADER
Keeping a near vertical line is important. While allowing the jig to fall unimpeded in freefall, you must reduce line drag as much as possible. erefore it is no use trailing five metres of leader.
I use about a metre of low diameter fluorocarbon (20-30lb), which acts as a rubbing leader. e mainline becomes a vital part of your set-up and braid is the only choice. Most standard braid is X4 strand, but the diameter is too large. It’s worth investing in a premium X8 strand, which has a thinner diameter. Look for a PE rating of 1.5 to 2.5 (about 30lb to 45lb) for depths of about 50 metres.
Once you have tied a short leader to the mainline, attach a small solid ring (approximately size 6) to the other end. To this, attach the jig using the split ring connecting the assist hook. Should you require a different size or length, it is simple to change the jig or assist hook. A pair of split ring pliers makes it easier.
JIG CHOICE
Most jigs now fall under the slow jig banner, with streamlined vertical versions becoming harder to find.
Remember, depth of water determines the weight needed. In 20 metres go for the lighter end, say up to 120g, whereas in 50 metres this may need to be increased to 180g. In order to maintain the near vertical line, the jig’s weight should be increased when the wind and tide increases. In the English Channel on a medium tide it’s not unusual to fish up to 250g at times in 50 metres of water.
For deeper water, you need a jig that is not so heavily centre-balanced and is classed as a ‘high fall’ jig. Longer and slimmer in profile, for UK
waters these could weigh up to 350g. ey fall faster to reach the required depth before line drag becomes an issue. e jig’s length doesn’t seem to be too important, as I’ve caught fish that are smaller than the jig. Certain weights will determine a jig’s physical size. It’s only in shallow clearer water when perhaps trying to match the hatch that this would be an issue.
e best jigs are produced by the Japanese but they come at a premium price. In UK waters, SPJ often involves fishing around structure where you may lose jigs. erefore, when starting out it is worth trying some of the many other brands available to see what works for you.
A jig’s action is more important than its colour, but if you have a colour that works in your area then go with it. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Many jigs incorporate glow sheet in the pattern, which can replicate fish-attracting bioluminescence. Zebra glow patterns are popular because they break up the shape of the jig.
THE TECHNIQUE
is has been written about before, so my tips are a starting point. Take a look at the many video clips that are available.
Try to avoid placing the rod butt under your armpit. Instead run the rod along the underside of your forearm and elbow to make it easier to work and feel how it is imparting movement into the jig.
When first lowering the jig, remember that if it is allowed to freefall straight away it will naturally swoop or flutter slowing its descent. For the first few seconds of the drop, slightly thumb the spool to create just enough resistance to keep the jig vertical. After those few seconds you can feel when there is enough line out for the resistance of the reel’s spinning spool to take over, so you can ease the thumb pressure.
Hold the rod pointing down towards the water to ensure less line resistance from the rod guides. When the jig hits bottom, quickly engage the spool and lift the rod to avoid snagging any structure. A strike is likely on the drop, so be ready.
e action of working the jig is known as a pitch. Imagine that you are trying to flip (pitch) the jig up into the water column by flicking the rod upwards and dropping it quickly down so the jig can freefall. is pitch can be short or long and accentuated by a turn of the reel handle from a quarter to full revolution while raising the rod. Avoid turning the handle when lowering the rod because this reduces the amount of jig travel during the attractive freefall.
In deeper water or for jigs with a more swooping motion, the pitch can be slower and the rod raised higher. Lowering the rod slightly quicker will allow the jig more space to freefall – known as a high fall technique. About 85 per cent of strikes happen on the fall so be prepared as you start the next pitch.
Most manufacturers give a definition of a jig’s performance, so remember this when you are working it. Each jig’s design reacts differently to your actions. Highly erratic fluttering jigs need only a short pitch and fall because they flip horizontally much quicker. Jigs with a more swooping action may require a lengthened pitch to raise them higher in order to fall further on the drop. Vary the pitch between short and long for those jigs that both swoop and flutter. Keep your pitches varied until you get results. Try to maintain the near-vertical line and increase the weight if you are losing it.
is method can succeed when others fail, such as during low water or no tide movement. It can extend your fishing time too, but conditions need to be right. A racing tide and/or howling wind make it impossible to maintain a vertical line, so use another technique. As everything is so refined and lightweight, you’ll find SPJ is a satisfying way to fish.