Japan: Why now's the time to explore Japan's ancient traditions
Tokyo, Mt. Fuji, cherry blossoms and geishas remain Japan’s tourism mainstays but there are plenty of ways to experience a more traditional and complex Japan, says
Two gnarling giant deities greet me at the gates of Danjo Garan’s temple complex in Koyasan, the starting point of my journey through the ancient Kumano Kodo trails, Japan’s spiritual heartland.
Just behind them another deity awaits, grinning with four fangs. By now my senses are awake to the stillness around me; the bright vermilion pagodas; the aroma of incense; fresh mountain air enveloping Mt Koya in Wakayama prefecture.
The road to salvation is long indeed.
Next door, I trail pilgrims perusing Okunoin cemetery’s two-kilometre cobbled path which leads to the grand mausoleum of
Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism.
Steep slopes cradle this sanctum, with towering pine and cedar trees from which slivers of sunlight peek. There are thousands of gravestones and stupas, some as ancient as the 1,200-year old forest.
Every few yards I stop and ponder who these souls were. My guide is way ahead with the group, but I catch up and ask the question: “Why are some statues adorned with red bonnets and bibs?
“They represent Jizo, a deity who protects children who died from unfortunate circumstances, and are trapped in the underworld,” she answers, with passion. “There are shrines dedicated to samurai warlords and heads of corporations too,” she adds.
With those thoughts, I spend the night at a ryokan in Yonumine Onsen, a hot spring village set deep in Mount Koya.
Good to go
Japan’s wealth of natural wonders, culture, history, arts and culinary gems can be mind-boggling, particularly for first-time visitors. Fortunately, there are many tour packages designed to introduce Japan neophytes to the country’s many facets.
However, a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japan requires more than just one visit, and savvy travellers are looking for bespoke, prefecture-focused experiences beyond the usual Mt. Fuji, geishas and cherry blossom – spring is the peak season in Japan, where there are tonnes of cherry blossom-related festivals going on.
There’s a growing interest in traditional culinary encounters, so much so that specialist tour operators are curating authentic gastronomic itineraries that take clients to the very heart of Japan’s foodie culture.
This year is a good time to visit – and for various reasons. With the 2019 Rugby World Cup and the 2020 Summer Olympics looming, prices will go up, and sports fans will descend upon the country. So visiting this year presents an opportunity to experience Japan for what it truly is – tranquil and spiritual, yet quirky and innovative.
Compared with, say, Switzerland and the Nordic countries, Japan is certainly affordable, and as David Peat, Sales & Operations Executive at JTB Europe Ltd says, “Japan offers incredible value for money in terms of exceptional service levels, and the current exchange rate is more favourable compared to what it was following the post-Brexit referendum”.
Think outside the Bento
Get spiritual: When Japan’s big cities overwhelm, escape to the mountains, where the tranquil atmosphere will revive the soul. At Koyasan in the Kii Peninsula, spend an hour of meditation followed by a meal of shojin ryori, the traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, and stay at a temple lodging (shukubo). Continue the spiritual journey exploring the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails.
Learn about ninjas: Iga City, home of ancient Ninja clans, is a quiet enclave that belies an intriguing past, when Ninjas worked alongside warring samurai clans. At
Iga’s Ninja Museum of Iga-Ryu (iganinja.jp/en), experts demonstrate traditional Ninjutsu tactics and weaponry skills, while a guided tour reveals typical escape doors, traps and hiding places. Meet a local teashop owner whose grandfather was a bona fide Ninja.
Become a samurai: Explore the world of samurai warriors at Toei Kyoto Studio Park (toei-eigamura.com/en/shows. html), a working film studio backlot set in the Edo period and complemented by kid-friendly samuraithemed shows. Or in Tokyo, join a fascinating guided tour at the Samurai Museum (samuraimuseum.jp/en) in Shinjuku.
Eat like a local: Getting under the skin of Japan means devouring its culinary culture. Visit the Shinyokohama Ramen museum (raumen.co.jp/english/) in Yokohama. Japanese whiskies are winning awards, so book (months ahead) for a tour of a distillery, the best known of which is the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery (suntory.co.jp/factory/yamazaki/) outside Kyoto.
Dive with Ama divers: Meet the legendary Ama female divers in the coastal village of Osatu in Ise-Shima (iseshima-t. com/en/tours.html) and you can even dive with them. They have kept the 3,000-year old tradition of free-diving alive - once a lucrative livelihood for women, wearing only loincloths and diving for pearl oysters. The oldest is Reiko, 85, who retired seven years ago. Here, they tell their tales, grill fresh catch for visitors, and perform a traditional dance.
“There’s a rising demand for self-catering traditional townhouses (machiya), which are great places to stay, particularly in Kyoto”
Ruth Hubbard, Japan Product Manager, Inside Japan
What’s new
Hotels and resorts: Club Med Tomamu Hokkaido (clubmed.co.uk/r/Tomamu-Hokkaido/s) opened in January, offering access to Japan’s largest indoor wave pool, Mina-Mina beach.
Hotel Gracery (en.gracery.com) will open its
10th property in autumn this year, located in Tokyo’s historic Asakusa district.
Tourism trends: Osaka is dubbed as ‘Japan’s kitchen’ and is also said to nurture the highest number of comedians. It’s also gearing up to become a ‘wellness destination’ with packages incorporating medical check-ups, massages, forest meditation, vegetarian meals and visits to hot springs. Sports tourism: The Okinawa Karate Kaikan (karatekaikan. jp) opened in Naha, Okinawa’s capital last year.
Facilities include a museum, four competition courts, training and seminar rooms.
Airlines and airports: The opening of Okinawa’s third international airport, scheduled for autumn 2018, is expected to boost visitor arrivals.
ANA (ana.co.jp) has launched a daily Chef Service in the ANA Lounge at Haneda Airport, and is now serving sake in Economy Class on international flights.
JAL (jal.com) offers a Premium Night Flight programme designed to maximize sleeping time on board by dimming cabin lights soon after takeoff, and serving the first meal seven hours into the flight.
Tourism talk
“Japan is expensive!’ is one of the frequent comments I hear from agents. But right now the pound is worth 150 yen, making Japan great value for British travellers. In Tokyo, a one-day metro card is £4, a sushi lunch starts at just £6, and a room at a modern budget hotel in Tokyo is available from £46. Flight prices from the UK to Japan have also dropped this year, with the current best offer being £585 return with Air France.
“Almost 311,000 UK visitors travelled to Japan in 2017, a 6.2% increase from the previous year.
“UK tour operators and cruise companies are reporting that Japan has become very popular, with sales going well, especially for autumn and spring departures when travellers can marvel at the gorgeous autumn colours and stunning cherry blossoms.
“However, these two periods are not mustvisit times. Our mild climate in spring is replicated in autumn, up to early November, and allows visitors to explore Japan comfortably.”
Yumi Takakubo, Head of Trade Marketing and Partnerships, JNTO London
Where to book it
INSIDE JAPAN TOURS – 0117 370 9730
Highlights of the Honshu Hiking Self-Guided Adventure include a visit to Mt. Takao, trekking along the Nakasendo Way, stays in traditional family-run ryokans and a five-day journey along the Kii Peninsula’s Kumano Kodo trails, one of only two UNESCO-registered pilgrimage routes in the world. The package starts from £2,630pp, with 16 nights’ B&B, meals and a seven-day Japan Rail Pass. International flights are not included. insidejapantours.com
PETTITTS – 01892 250 708
Sushi and Samurai – A Food Tour of Japan showcases a hotpot of culinary experiences: lessons from a soba chef, a sushi-making masterclass, a visit to Osaka’s Dotonbori restaurant quarter and a breakfast at Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market. The 15-day trip starts from £5980pp, with flights, guided sightseeing in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, train travel and accommodation. petitts.co.uk
“Courtesy and consideration for others are a top priority in Japan,
especially on trains”
Rowena Marella-Daw, Travel Writer