Thailand: Twin-centres
Combining time on an island with a few nights in Bangkok is a classic Thailand holiday which covers the best of both worlds. Jo Gardner looks at a few combos
It’s been nearly two decades since Leonardo DiCaprio played the lead role in The Beach but 19 years hasn’t stopped hoards of British holidaymakers coming to Thailand in search of their own slice of paradise.
And who can blame them? The sand is whiter than white, the sea blue-green, and the food healthy and zingy. And that’s before mentioning the great range of hotels and utterly friendly locals.
On a recent visit to Thailand, I stay on Koh Samui at the family-owned – and utterly idyllic – Tongsai Bay Resort. I spend my days swimming in the private infinity pool of my gorgeous villa, enjoying spa treatments, relaxing on the resort’s private beach, attending cooking classes and dining on the sand as the sun sets.
With a complete ban on plastic enforced 15 years ago, the resort’s eco-credentials are as impressive as its beach setting.
Here they make their own detergent using food waste and even use long slices of lemongrass for straws (other hotels: please take note!).
When it’s time to leave, I’m feeling nervous about spending time in Bangkok; I was there 10 years ago and my main memory is of a city both hot and hectic.
But a decade is a long time in travel and Bangkok has morphed into a fascinating and, frankly, funky city.
I stay at the brand-new Lancaster hotel, the newest member of The Landmark Lancaster Group, which has properties in Bangkok and London. The design is sleek and modern with a 50-metre atrium in the lobby (look up as soon as you enter), polished marble floors, spacious rooms (try the iGlass in the bathroom for technology at its best) and an entire floor dedicated to wellness.
It also has The Rib Room, a Michelinrecognised steakhouse, on the 31st floor.
I feel suitably smug as I swim gentle lengths in the 12th floor outdoor pool, stopping every now and again to look out at the city below.
Despite temperatures creeping up to 39 degrees, and humidity at nearly 90%, I feel as cool as a cucumber. Afterwards, I head to the alfresco bar for a cold local beer with a view. Life is good.
Noodles and gin
One morning, I head out with a guide to see some of the lesser-known sights of Bangkok, hopping on and off tuk tuks and long boats to visit traditional markets, gargantuan gold Buddhas and temples perched on top of mountains.
My lunch of tofu, crunchy vegetables and soft noodles from a street vendor is both fresh and tasty – and costs just 29p.
That evening, back at the hotel, I grab a window seat and, over a succulent steak with blue sauce, marvel at the glittering Bangkok skyline.
The next evening, I head to Ironballs, a tiny bar and gin distillery that would feel right at home in Soho. Listening to the dulcet tones of a female jazz singer, I sip cocktails until the wee hours.
On the plane home, I reflect on a week of two halves: a beach holiday in a breathtaking resort with just the right amount of relaxation, swimming and spa-ing, followed by a city break with all the hallmarks of achingly hip London – but with much better weather and far cheaper food. Never again will I bypass Bangkok when heading to Thailand.
“Bangkok is a city that is constantly changing,” says Emma Arnott, Trade Manager at Tourism Thailand.
“With new hotels, restaurants and developments, such as the ICON Siam shopping centre, opening all the time, visitors will discover something new each time they visit.
“Domestic carriers like Bangkok Airways, Nok Air and Thai Smile operate frequent flights between all destinations in Thailand, making it very easy to organise a twincentre itinerary for your clients,” she adds.
“On the plane home I reflect on a week of two halves: a beach holiday in a resort with just the right amount of relaxation and spa-ing, followed by a city break with all the hallmarks of achingly
hip London”
Twin-centre ideas
For beach-lovers, Krabi and Koh
Lanta: There is no shortage of Thai beaches but a good combination is to twin a large island with a smaller one. Krabi has a well-developed infrastructure and plenty of recognisable hotels, while the smaller and less developed Koh Lanta is quieter and laid back, with fewer tourists and boutique-style accommodation.
For beach & jungle, Khao Lak and
Khao Sok National Park: If you don’t want to spend your entire holiday relaxing on a beach, why not combine Khao Lak – a younger, quieter version of Phuket famed for its diving and snorkelling – with Khao Sok National Park, home to one of the best elephant sanctuaries in Thailand and covered by the world’s oldest evergreen rainforest? Get up close with these creatures, trek through the jungle or kayak on a lake.
For city-slickers, Bangkok and
Chiang Mai: Bangkok and Chiang Mai are the two biggest cities in Thailand but feel worlds apart. With its new hotels, Michelin-star restaurants, rooftop bars and modern shopping centres, Bangkok has its sights set firmly on the future; quieter, cooler Chiang Mai is more about history and culture, with smaller hotels and a more immediately local feel.
For time-warpers, Phuket and Koh
Yao Noi: If you fancy experiencing ‘then and now’ Thailand, head first to Koh Yao Noi, an untouched island of farmland, buffalos and unspoilt beaches. You’ll find just a few market stalls, a handful of local restaurants (often lit by candlelight) and not much else. Phuket – a large island with a well-developed infrastructure – tells the story of modern-day Thailand. It has plenty of accommodation, nightlife and dining.
For city and beach, Bangkok and
Koh Samet: Holidaymakers who get bored on the beach, but still want to relax, should combine Koh Samet – a beautiful, untouched island where you can listen to the waves as you fall asleep – with buzzy Bangkok just three hours away. Spend the first week recharging your batteries, then re-energise in the city that never sleeps.
For hippies, Koh Samui and
Koh Phangan: Lovers of spa treatments, wellness retreats and full moon parties should book this twin-centre. The majority of the hotels on Koh Samui have decent spas offering local treatments (try the Thai massage if you dare). Koh Phangan, on the other hand, is renowned for its full moon parties, a hippy vibe and beach gatherings.
Where to book it
HAYES & JARVIS – 01293 839221
The 11-day Khao Lak and Khao Sok National Park twin-centre departs on
May 19 2019. The twin-centre trip costs £1,849pp and includes flights with Cathay Pacific, transfers, eight nights’ bed and breakfast accommodation at the Garden Residence Room in Khao Lak and two nights’ full-board lodging in Khao Sok.
hayesandjarvis.co.uk TUCAN TRAVEL – 0800 804 8435 The five-night Thailand in a Week tour starts from £449pp, including domestic transfers, three nights in a hotel in
Chiang Mai, two nights in a guesthouse in Bangkok, breakfasts, a river boat cruise and entrance to Ko Pat temple.
tucantravel.co.uk
“With new hotels, restaurants and developments, such as the ICON Siam shopping centre, opening all the time, visitors will find something new each time they visit
Bangkok”
Emma Arnott, Trade Manager, Tourism Thailand