Walking holidays in Gran Canaria
It may be best known for its beaches, but Gran Canaria’s mountainous terrain is made for outdoor enthusiasts
Keen walkers can follow well-signed trails through UNESCO biosphere reserves and past pre-Hispanic sacred rocks in Gran Canaria. After a day’s hiking, there’s the reward of breathtaking views and delicious gastronomy.
La Cumbre – “the Summit”
The island’s rugged interior has been crafted by volcanic eruptions. One particularly violent explosion caused the centre of the volcano to collapse, creating the Caldera de Tejeda, a crater 18km wide. The two distinctive pillars, Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga crowning the crater, are the result of five million years of erosion.
The region has maintained local traditions more than any other part of the island, including delicious local dishes. Try the salt-fish sweet-potato “sancocho”’ washed down with a shot of warming honey rum.
Rock dwellings of Artenara
The crossroads at Cruz de Tejeda marks the geographical centre of Gran Canaria, and makes a good start for two walks.
The first 8km trail involves a gradual climb up through the pines before a gentle downhill ridge walk. Take time to enjoy the views across to the Caldera de Tejeda, with Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga in the distance. The path passes the Cuevas de Caballero – caves with aboriginal rock engravings – before descending to the village of Artenara, at 1,270m it is the highest on Gran Canaria.
Some of the houses are built into the rock and the chapel of the Virgen de la Cuevita, dating from the 18th century, has a cave to itself. One of these troglodyte dwellings has been turned into a museum.
Tempting treats in Teror
The second option is a 12km trail in the opposite direction, dropping down through dense forest and mixed farmland to Teror. The town is famous for being the site where the Virgin Mary revealed herself in a pine tree to a group of shepherds in 1481. The spot became a place of pilgrimage and the 18th century Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pino now stands imposingly in the Plaza del Pino. Walkers will enjoy typical colonial Canary houses with colourful wooden balconies. Go for the Sunday morning market and taste local cheese, olives and freshly baked breads. Finish by sampling the local wines.
Roque Nublo marks the top
In the centre of the island, the outline of the volcanic rock Roque Nublo stands stark at 1,813m above sea level. At 80m tall it is one of the world’s largest free-standing crags. The path up to the rock is relatively easy, starting at the car park at La Goleta.
There are fine views of Pico de las Nieves, the highest peak of Gran Canaria, and the island’s other sacred rock, Roque Bentayga, as well as out towards the sea. It was an ancient place of worship for the Guanches, the island’s aboriginal inhabitants.
Sacred light of Roque Bentayga
Bentayga is a natural fortress lined with inscriptions and wall paintings, marking a time when generations of
Guanches lived here, building community granaries and funerary caves. A short and precipitous path leads to their almogarén, a spiritual ceremonial space where the sun plays a game of light and shadow. At the solstice, a single solar ray strikes a circle engraved on the rock centuries ago by Guanche astronomers.
Chill out at Pico de Las Nieves
Translating as “peak of the snows”, Pico de Las Nieves was used in the 17th century to store snow for the summer. In June, blocks of ice were carried on horseback to the ice cream shops in the capital, the city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, a journey of around five hours. They were also used at the hospital to control epidemics of yellow fever and cholera.
The peak is the highest point on the island at 1,949m. From the car park, follow the signs to the mirador which overlooks the entire south of the island. Unlike other lookout points, Las Nieves has great views on misty days with Gran Canaria’s peaks seeming to float on a sea of clouds.
History unfolds at La Fortaleza
Near Santa Lucia in the south east of the island are the castle-like La Fortaleza rock formations, rising in layers from the fissured valleys below. It was a fortified Guanche settlement and its eastern side has a large number of natural and artificial caves. These were used as dwellings, food storage and even as burial sites and are all linked by a network of paths and tunnels. It’s recognised as the site of the last stand of the indigenous people against the Castilian conquerors in
1483. The excellent interpretation centre details their tragic history.
Nature thrives at Tamadaba
Forming part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Tamadaba Natural Park in the west is the oldest and largest natural park on the island, covering an area of 7,500 hectares. The landscape was shaped by eruptions of the Tamadaba volcano over 14 million years ago, descending to the sea in a series of ravines and sheer cliffs. At the heart of the reserve is an enormous forest of indigenous Canary pines containing the largest variety of endemic flora on the island. It’s also a bird watchers’ paradise with woodpecker, blue chaffinch, kestrels and hawks easily sighted.
Paddle at Puerto de Las Nieves
Starting at the Tamadaba campsite, this 11km walk is fairly level until the footpath, long used by locals collecting wood for fuel, leads down steeply, passing caves dug into the crags for storing grain. There are spectacular views of the coast and the Agaete Valley but even more unique is the sudden rise of temperature that walkers will experience at the valley floor, which has its own microclimate.
It’s lush with fruit trees, coffee bushes and vines but a highlight is a stop at Bodega
Los Berrazales to sample their excellent wines and coffee. Finally, you arrive at Puerto de Las Nieves where you can soak your aching feet in the saltwater pools by the sea. Don’t miss the excellent fish soup, “caldo de pescado” it’s a local specialty.