Game Cookery

They threaten song birds — and apparently pester pigeons — but grey squirrels are also delicious when they’re deep fried, says Cai ap Bryn

It’s extraordinary to think that the ubiquitous grey squirrel hasn’t actually been here for all that long. It’s generally believed that they arrived in the 1890s. Equally, it’s shocking that there are people in their fifties and sixties who remember red squirrels in places such as Norfolk. You won’t need me to tell you that when grey squirrel numbers rise, red squirrel numbers tumble. Happily, you can do your bit by eating the enemy. Not many people do so in the UK, but they love them in the US, especially in the south.

This squirrel recipe nearly cost me my relationship. With limited game in the freezer, I needed something and I needed it quickly. Then I had a great idea. Why not despatch some of the fat, tasty squirrels in the garden?

Plump

That evening, as the sun was going down, I glanced out of the back window and saw a lovely, plump-looking squirrel standing on a branch.

Excellent, I thought, as I darted to get my air rifle. I quietly opened the door enough to poke the barrel through and rested the fore-end on my knuckles, which were grasping the door frame. I dropped the crosshairs right behind the ear and fired. The squirrel dropped like a stone.

I gutted and skinned it, then rinsed the carcass and began my prep. When interrogated on the squirrel’s provenance, I was given away by my father-in-law, who had watched from an upstairs window. He liked the idea of the squirrel cull, but I still got a slapped wrist.

I’ve made barbecue rabbit bonbons so I was sure this would be good. I prefer squirrel to rabbit as it has a nuttier taste (believe it or not), but the meat yield is low.

I used a barbecue sauce, but other flavours could be used, even curry. This recipe makes four pulled squirrel bonbons and I would recommend using three squirrels to make the task worthwhile.