Whether frol­ick­ing in the snow or snug­gling un­der the du­vet, Jo Carter’s po­lar bear softie will warm the cold­est win­ter days.

Simply Sewing - - CONTENTS -


Plush fab­ric: white, 50x75cm (20x30in)

Plush fab­ric: black, 6x6cm (2!⁄"x2!⁄"in)

Pair of plas­tic safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) di­am­e­ter

Stranded cot­ton: black and metal­lic sil­ver

Scraps of iron-on in­ter­fac­ing Polyester toy fill­ing

Wa­ter erasable pen/pen­cil

Ba­sic sewing kit


Smooth Cud­dle 3 in Snow White from www.plushad­


Ap­prox­i­mately 22cm (8½in) high.


You will find the tem­plates needed on the pull-out pat­tern sheet in­cluded with this is­sue.

Use a 5mm (¼in) seam al­lowance un­less oth­er­wise stated.


Step one Trace and cut out all the tem­plate pieces. The tem­plates in­clude seam al­lowances where nec­es­sary and the ar­rows in­di­cate the pile or print di­rec­tion for mark­ing and cut­ting out. The notches are used to match pieces when stitching to­gether, so mark these, too. When the pat­tern spec­i­fies to cut two or more of a tem­plate, after mark­ing out half of the pieces re­quired, the tem­plate needs to be turned over to mark out the re­main­ing half so that the pieces are cut as mir­ror images. Step two Us­ing a wa­ter erasable pen or pen­cil draw out the pat­tern pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of the fab­ric and cut out as fol­lows:

From white plush fab­ric:

Front ear, cut 2. Back ear, cut 2. Mid­dle face, cut 1. Side face, cut 2. Back head, cut 2. Tummy, cut 2. Side body, cut 2. Un­der arm, cut 2. Top arm, cut 2. In­ner leg, cut 2. Foot, cut 2.

Tail, cut 1.

From black plush fab­ric:

Nose, cut 1.


Step one You can em­broi­der as many or as few of the po­lar bear pieces with snowflakes as you pre­fer. We have put three on ours. To do this, draw out your own snowflake de­signs onto pa­per then copy them free­hand onto your cho­sen fab­ric pieces.

Step two It’s best to press a small piece of iron-on in­ter­fac­ing onto the wrong side (WS) of the plush fab­ric piece where you want to work the embroidery to sup­port it and stop the fab­ric puck­er­ing un­der­neath the stitching. Use metal­lic thread to stitch the snowflakes us­ing back­stitch worked close to­gether.


Step one Place one front ear right sides (RS) to­gether with one back ear and sew around the sides, leav­ing the straight edge open.

Step two Turn the ear RS out and make a fold in the centre of the front ear so that it mir­rors the shape and width of the back.

Step three Tack the fold into place across the bot­tom of the ear.

Step four Re­peat this process for the other ear,

but this time make the front ear fold in the op­po­site di­rec­tion.


Step one With RS to­gether, close the dart in the top of the mid­dle face. Ta­per the end when you reach it for a neat fin­ish.

Step two Sew the top of the nose onto the bot­tom of the mid­dle face.

Step three With RS to­gether, first close the dart in one side face piece and then sew it to the cor­re­spond­ing side of the mid­dle face.

Step four Re­peat this process for the other side face piece.

Step five With the front of the ears against the RS of the face and the fold in the ear fac­ing out­ward, tack the ears in place be­tween the seam and marker on each side.

Step six Make the small­est hole pos­si­ble through which to al­low the shank of the eye in the side face pieces where marked. If you’re us­ing thin fab­ric such as cot­ton add a small square of fab­ric over the shank on the re­verse of the face be­fore adding the washer. This will pro­vide some ex­tra sup­port to the eye to keep it in po­si­tion and stop it drop­ping down.

Step seven Fit the eyes into place ac­cord­ing to the man­u­fac­turer’s in­struc­tions.


Step one Place the back head pieces RS fac­ing and sew to­gether from the top down along the back of the head for ap­prox­i­mately 4cm (1!⁄"in) just to join them.

Step two With RS to­gether, line up the dart at the top of the mid­dle face with the cen­tral seam in the back head and from this top point sew the face and back head to­gether down one side. Re­turn to the top point and sew the re­main­ing side to­gether. Sewing the seam in two parts in this way is eas­ier and helps to en­sure a more even fin­ish.


Step one With RS to­gether, fold the tail piece in half then sew it to­gether, leav­ing the end open for now.

Step two Turn the tail the RS out and stuff it lightly just to give it a lit­tle body.

Step three Tack the end closed.


Step one Se­lect the cor­re­spond­ing tummy and in­ner leg pieces and with RS to­gether sew to­gether around the in­ter­nal curve. Step two Re­peat this on the other side with the other two tummy and in­ner leg pieces

Step three With RS to­gether, sew a side body piece to the cor­re­spond­ing tummy and leg sec­tion from the un­der arm area down along the side of the body. Con­tinue to sew across the top of the leg.

Step four Re­peat this process on the other side with the other two side body and tummy and leg sec­tions.


Step one Se­lect an un­der arm piece and the side of the body sec­tion it cor­re­sponds with. Step two With RS to­gether, sew from the in­ter­nal V at the top of the un­der arm to the V-shaped open­ing formed be­tween the side body and tummy.

Step three Re­peat this process on the other side of the body.

Step four With RS to­gether, first close the dart in a top arm piece and then sew the top arm to its cor­re­spond­ing un­der arm.

Step five Re­peat this on the other side.


Step one With RS to­gether, sew a foot piece around the end of one leg.

Step two Re­peat this to sew the other foot on the end of the other leg.


Step one With RS to­gether, sew the front of the face closed from the bot­tom of the nose down to the neck edge.

Step two Join the head and body to­gether along the neck edge, tak­ing care to match up the mark­ers.


Step one Tack the tail to the RS of one of the side body pieces.

Step two With RS to­gether, sew the back head to­gether fully to just a lit­tle be­yond the neck seam.

Step three Sew the bot­tom back of the body closed to just above the tail to leave an open­ing of 8-10cm (3-4in) in the back of the bear body.

Step four With RS fac­ing, sew the bot­tom of the bear to­gether from the bot­tom of the foot on one side over to the bot­tom of the foot on the other side.

Step five Turn the po­lar bear RS out and stuff firmly with polyester toy fill­ing.


Step one Em­broi­der a mouth in back­stitch us­ing black stranded cot­ton and re­fer­ring to the pho­to­graph above for po­si­tion­ing.

Step two Sew some shap­ing be­tween the eyes by bring­ing the nee­dle out at the in­side of one eye, se­cur­ing the thread with a few small stitches and then tak­ing the nee­dle through the face to the other eye, back to the first eye and back again to the sec­ond eye. Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the eyes to­gether slightly, giv­ing the face more char­ac­ter. Se­cure the thread, take the nee­dle back into the head and out again at any point and then snip away the ex­cess.

Step four If pre­ferred, add some more shap­ing be­tween each cor­ner of the mouth and the eye above it in the same way.

Step five Re-ad­just any fill­ing that was dis­turbed by the shap­ing then sew the back of the body closed us­ing lad­der stitch.

Give your po­lar bear sub­tle sparkle with snowflakes sewn in shim­mer­ing sil­ver.

Jo worked for 10 years as a soft toy de­signer and re­dis­cov­ered her love of toy-mak­ing while tak­ing time out with her sons. www. twoowls.type­

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