TRACING PATTERNS

Here at HQ we’re working hard to make our magazine a welcoming and inclusive place for all members of the sewing community. One aspect of this is to increase our pattern sizing. In order to do this, we have decided to print our pattern sheets double-sided so that we can fit as many pieces and size ranges on the sheets and still fit them inside their paper envelopes.

This means that you will need to trace off the patterns if you want to make use of all sizes. We are aiming to put all of a set size range on one side of a sheet and any other size ranges on the reverse so that if you fall into the 6–20 bracket or 18–30+ you can still cut the pieces out if you’d like to. However this might not always be possible so be sure to check your pattern sheets before cutting into them.

PREPARING THE PATTERN

Before you begin, make sure your pattern is as flat as possible. A crinkled pattern will be difficult to trace. If need be you can iron your pattern on a low heat. Step one Outline your size using a highlighter. Mark pattern markings too (darts, grainlines, notches). Step two Lay your pattern on a flat work surface. Place the pattern paper on top and secure with pattern weights. Weights are much better than pins as they won’t mark your paper or get in the way.

Step three Alternatively you can place your pattern paper underneath the pattern and use a tracing wheel to trace over your size. If you are doing this make sure to protect your work surface with a cutting mat.

TRACING THE PATTERN

Step one Mark the highlighted line with dots or dashes – straight lines can be marked with a dot at each end and connected later on with a ruler. Marking curves in this way will also help you to achieve a more accurate result than tracing directly from the pattern.

Step two Connect your pencil markings and then trace over them with a fine liner. Make sure to include all pattern markings such as notches, darts, pivot points, gathering lines etc.

FINISHING

Step one Label your pattern pieces with the pattern name, piece name, cutting information and any grainlines or foldlines to finish. This is important as it will help you to see if a piece is missing.

Step two This method will give you a copy of your pattern to use for your project. Once you have made any necessary adjustments to the pattern (bust, shoulder, stomach etc.) you could also trace a copy onto manilla card. Card patterns can be used time and time again and can be manoeuvred easily.