MAKING THE top

STAY STITCH NECK AND ARMHOLES

Step one Stay stitch the neck and armholes of the Front and Back Body pieces 7mm from the edge, stopping at the shoulder notches.

SEW THE DARTS

Step one Fold each dart in half, RS together, matching the notches and seams at the side.

Step two Sew from the side seam to the mark at the dart apex. Press up. Repeat for the lining.

SEW THE SIDE SEAMS

Step one Zigzag/overlock the side seams individually (this isn’t sewing the seams together – we're just overcasting the seams to prevent them from fraying). Repeat for the Lining/facings and zigzag/overlock the centre front and centre back seams as well if they have seams.

Step two Pin the centre front and centre back seams of the Front and Back Body, RS together. Sew and press open.

Step three Pin the side seams of main fabric Front and Back Body RS together. Sew and press seams open.

Step four Repeat as above to sew the lining fabric side seams.

Step five Facings: If you’re sewing French seams for the side seams of the main body, press the facing seams open instead to reduce bulk at the under arm.

BAG OUT THE NECK AND ARMHOLES

Step one Turn the outer main fabric layer inside out.

Step two Place the lining or facings inside the outer layer so they are RS together. Pin both layers all around, matching the notches as you go.

Step three Sew along all the edges starting at the under arm. Sew with the main fabric facing you on the machine.

Step four Before turning RS out, understitch the seam allowance of the armholes and front and back neck to the lining. Lift the outer layer out of the way and ‘open’ the garment to reach the RS of the neck and armhole seams to face you on the machine. You will only be able to stitch around the lower part of the neck and armholes. Start as far back as you can fit the presser foot and stop when you can’t go any further.

TRIM AND CLIP THE SEAMS

Step one While the garment is still inside out, trim the neck and armhole seam allowances to half their width.

Step two Clip little nips into the trimmed seam allowance at the armhole curve and neck curves.

TURN TO THE RIGHT SIDE

Step one Turn the garment to the RS by pushing the end of each strap/tie through itself so that the RS of the fabric is on the outside. It can be a little fiddly to push it through the shoulder. Using a blunt tool can help, but do not

cm in cm in cm in LENGTH cm (shoulder to hem) in

Note: where two measurements are given, these sizes are available in both the B and DD cup patterns

FULL BUST

WAIST

TOP HIP AT HEM