BODICE: ALL VERSIONS

Note: because the bodice is lined, we don’t need to finish off the seams by zigzagging or overlocking as all seams will be hidden.

Step one Make the Waist Tie by lying the two pieces RS to RS. Pin and sew around the long edges and the point. Leave the straight short edge open. Trim the seam allowances to 5mm and snip the corners at the point. Turn the Waist Tie RS out and press. Run a gathering line on the open side, 1.5cm in from the raw edge. Run a second one a foot’s width into the seam allowance. Put to one side until needed. 01

Step two To construct the darts in the Back Bodice, fold the fabric with the notches on top of each other, RS together. Locate the point of the dart on the edge of the fold. Start sewing from the waist and run off at the point without backstitching, then knot the thread ends by hand and press towards the side seam. Repeat this so you have two darts in each Back Bodice.

Step three Repeat to sew the darts in the Back Bodice Lining, but press the darts towards the centre back.

Step four On the Front and Side Front Bodice pieces and their corresponding lining pieces, staystitch 1cm away from the raw edge of the bust seam to prevent stretching.

Step five Pin the Side Front Bodice to the Front Bodice, RS together. Clip into the Side Front Bodice’s seam allowance up until the staystitch line to help you pin the curve. Pin the Side Front to the Front Bodice (not the other way around!) starting by matching the notch and the top and bottom edges.

Pin well as it’s a curved seam, then start sew the seam. Repeat this process with the lining. Press the seam allowances open on both main fabric and lining. 02 Step six Matching notches, pin the Side Front Bodice to the Back Bodice, RS together, and sandwich the Waist Tie in between the pieces, so that it sits 1.8cm above the raw edge of the bodice hem. Use the gathering stitches on the Waist Tie to gather it up until it’s 3-5cm (depending on the thickness of the fabric). Sew from the top of the seam to the waist, making sure to keep the Waist Tie straight. 03

Step seven Trim any bulk created by the Waist Tie and press the seam allowances open. Repeat the same process for the lining (except the Waist Tie). Step eight Pin the shoulder seams RS together, and sew. Press the seam allowances open. Repeat this step on the lining.

Step nine Try on the bodice and check the fit.