SLEEVE CUFF: ALL VERSIONS

If you are making the 3/4 length sleeves, shorten the Cuff pattern by 3cm before continuing. Note that a single notch on the sleeve indicates the front, a double notch indicates the back.

Step one With RS together, sew up the short edges of the Cuffs. Trim the seam allowances and turn the Cuffs RS out. Press well.

Step two Overlap the short edges by 1.5cm. A button will eventually hold these edges together, but it will be non- functional. If you like, you can add a buttonhole at this stage and make it look functional.

Step three Machine tack the raw edges of the Cuff within the seam allowance so you end up with a round Cuff. visible as tucks or gathers, but a gathering stitch can help you distribute the ease evenly across the Sleeve head. You need a little bit more ease on the back half of the Sleeve head than on the front half.

Step four Gather up the Sleeve hem. Attach the Cuff to the Sleeve by laying the Cuff upside down onto the Sleeve so the raw edges of the Cuff are matching the raw edges of the Sleeve.

Step five The Cuff overlap should match the notch you made in step one. Distribute the Sleeve hem gathers so they fit neatly inside the Cuff. 06

Step six Pin the Cuff and Sleeve together and sew from the inside so you can keep an eye on the gathers. Then overlock or zigzag the seam allowances really short and fold the Cuff down. Sew on a Cuff button as a final step.

Step seven Insert the Sleeve into the armhole by first matching the centre notch of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam of the bodice, and match the underarm seam to the side seam of the bodice. The other two Sleeve notches are an indication of where to start and finish gathering and do not hav a corresponding notch in the armhole.

Step eight Start pinning up from the underarm so that the ease ends up centred around the Sleeve head. Use the gathering threads to draw up the Sleeve head to fit the bodice. Pin and sew from the inside.

Step nine Overlock or zigzag the seam allowances of the Sleeve and bodice together at a foot’s width.