BBC Sky at Night Magazine

Processing

Using a chromatic aberration software tool to remove unsightly rings around stars

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Refractor telescopes are a popular choice for viewing and imaging deep-sky targets. Relatively inexpensiv­e refractors are ‘achromats’, so-called because of their achromatic lens, but these often suffer from an effect known as chromatic aberration. This is where the focused light doesn’t quite bring all of the colours to the same point, resulting in slight colour-fringing around the stars. Achromats are best used for visual observatio­n, but some can also produce reasonable images.

There are also refractors that provide colourcorr­ected images, and these are called apochromat­s. These ‘apo’ or ‘semi-apo’ refractors often have Extra-low Dispersion (ED) glass in a doublet configurat­ion or better still, a triplet arrangemen­t that should eliminate colour-fringing. The process we are looking at here is not a replacemen­t for using an apochromat­ic refractor to get the best star images, but it can transform images produced with an achromat.

All in a night’s work

Sometimes a little colour-fringing creeps in to images, be it from a change in the temperatur­e or from perhaps not quite locking down the focuser, which allows a tiny amount of slippage. The resulting shots may have some chromatic aberration present and you might be tempted to abandon them, but before you do so it’s worth trying out the ‘Chromatic Aberration’ tool found in most image-processing software. In our ‘before and after’ example of M39 (above), taken with a 5-inch achromatic telescope, we show how an image can be saved by using the popular PaintShop Pro 2019 software. It’s well worth trying to salvage your image and save your hard night’s work.

First, use your favourite stacking software to produce the primary image (see Stage 1 screenshot). Then load it into your image-processing software

– in our case PaintShop Pro 2019. In our initial image you can see the blue fringing around the brightest stars and this is where the magic begins. Click on ‘Adjust > Chromatic Aberration Removal’ to bring up the ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ sub window (see Stage 2 screenshot). In the sub window we see a twin-screen view of part of the image. It is worth

decreasing the magnificat­ion using the ‘Zoom’ tool to

see most of the image as this allows you to select a

suitable star for you to work on. Now use the ‘Zoom’

tool again to magnify a star that exhibits chromatic aberration particular­ly well, making sure you keep it

centred in the screen. If you wish, and have a reasonably powerful graphics processor, tick the ‘Preview on Image’ box at the top so you can see any changes you make on the main image, seen in this case to the left of the ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ window. At this stage, if this is the first time you have used it, the lower box will be blank until you make a selection box to sample the colour you wish to remove.

Now drag your cursor in the ‘Before’ window over the colour you wish to sample or select (see Stage 3 screenshot) – helpfully it even tells you to do this. Keep the ‘Radius’ setting at 100. The sampled colour will appear in the small right-hand box and it will also appear as ‘Sample 1’ in the main centre box. The selected box usually contains a range of the colours selected and you’ll have better control if you keep the numerical value range around 5 or 6, otherwise too many hues of the colour are selected and you can end up with grey stars.

Once the selection is made, the right-hand window shows the effect on the star, and you can use this as a guide to see how much you want to change the colour around the star. As mentioned, if you use too large a range you can go overboard and ruin the stars making the image grey-scaled. Instead, we note the effect and can, if needed, make multiple selections (as shown in the Stage 4 screenshot). It is down to personal preference how much adjustment you make, but be careful as too many selections can make the star look bland. We prefer to leave a little colour around the star (as in Stage 3) which gives a more natural look. Bear in mind that there could also be nebulosity present in your image, and be careful not to affect that when you remove the chromatic aberration colour.

If you are happy with the result click on ‘OK’ to confirm the changes. Then you can either do a little more processing or save the image in whichever format you desire. This technique is well worth trying if it helps to save your preciously obtained images and hard work.

 ??  ?? BEFORE REMOVING CHROMATIC ABERRATION ▲ Star cluster M39, captured with a 5-inch achromat, before (left) and after the colour fringes have been removed
BEFORE REMOVING CHROMATIC ABERRATION ▲ Star cluster M39, captured with a 5-inch achromat, before (left) and after the colour fringes have been removed
 ??  ?? AFTER REMOVING CHROMATIC ABERRATION
AFTER REMOVING CHROMATIC ABERRATION
 ??  ?? Paul Money is an astronomy writer and broadcaste­r and is reviews editor for BBC Sky at Night Magazine
Paul Money is an astronomy writer and broadcaste­r and is reviews editor for BBC Sky at Night Magazine
 ??  ?? ▼ Stage 4: Making multiple selections of different parts of the colour-fringing
▼ Stage 4: Making multiple selections of different parts of the colour-fringing
 ??  ?? ▲ Stage 1: Image of star cluster M39 loaded into PaintShop Pro 2019 with the ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ sub menu selected
▲ Stage 1: Image of star cluster M39 loaded into PaintShop Pro 2019 with the ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ sub menu selected
 ??  ?? ▲ Stage 2: The ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ tool window
▲ Stage 2: The ‘Chromatic Aberration Removal’ tool window
 ??  ?? ▲ Stage 3 Taking a sample of the colour-fringing
▲ Stage 3 Taking a sample of the colour-fringing
 ??  ??

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