Flavour fac­tory

At the heart of a com­mu­nity-owned old fac­tory build­ing there’s a thriv­ing restau­rant, as CATHER­INE COURTE­NAY dis­cov­ers

Somerset Life - - THE MENU -

Think you need to be in a town cen­tre or beauty spot to make a go of a restau­rant? Bo­cabar is on the busy main road be­tween Glas­ton­bury and Street; it’s at the far end of an in­dus­trial es­tate and it’s not even that easy to ac­cess – it’s right be­side that busy main road, but you have to drive around the es­tate in or­der to get to it.

De­spite all this, you walk into the Red Brick Build­ing which houses Bo­cabar, through the doors into the restau­rant and it will be buzzing. What a great at­mos­phere! The well stocked bar (22 gins no less) faces you, the eat­ing area stretch­ing off to the left and the kitchen is vis­i­ble through an open­ing in the wall.

There’s lots go­ing on, lots to draw the eye - posters for gigs and DJ nights (of which there are plenty), aerial yoga classes, salsa and com­edy nights; the Red Brick Build­ing is a thriv­ing com­mu­nity-owned cen­tre, or hub as the word is these days, a so­cial en­ter­prise set in an old fac­tory build­ing. The ur­ban in­dus­trial look adds to the very laid-back and mod­ern feel and need­less to say there’s a strong sus­tain­able and eth­i­cal strand run­ning through.

Bo­cabar of­fers a mod­ern din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence. Food is fast, very fresh and of course very sea­sonal. There’s a long list of pro­duc­ers, many com­ing from within 10 miles. Dishes are packed with ex­cit­ing flavours and they come in styles to suit all din­ing needs.

New-ish chef Matt Brooks is clearly en­joy­ing him­self. There are el­e­gant dishes, like sauté fil­let of plaice with creamed leeks, potato, pancetta, sauté spinach with a red wine and mush­room jus; then there are hearty favourites like a Brix­ham fish stew, but there’s also a tan­ta­lis­ing ar­ray of veg plates. The veg on this oc­ca­sion comes from Bar­ring­ton Farm at Ilmin­ster, Plowright Or­ganic at Nether Stowey and Rad­ford Mill at Bath. The plates in­clude roast cauliflower with chimichurri, char­grilled broc­coli with baba ganoush and dukkah and a roast beet­root with a black olive tape­nade. You can try just one dish for £4.50, or sim­ply get the whole lot on a mezze plate for £11. With added hou­mous, olives and foc­ca­cia it’s a feast and ab­so­lutely zing­ing with flavours.

The Red Brick Build­ing is en­twined in the lo­cal com­mu­nity and Bo­cabar is at its heart – a hugely ap­peal­ing and cosy spot to in­dulge in lovely food, along with a cock­tail or two. glas­ton­bury.bo­cabar.co.uk

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