Art and about in Pembrokeshire
RUTH MOSALSKI stays at a new hotel that offers an elegant retreat for artists and tourists alike
IT is the smallest city in Britain with a population of just over 1,600 – but St David’s has an awful lot to offer.
Already boasting incredible views, centuries of history and a foodie trail, now it can add another claim... luxury.
Nestled in Pembrokeshire, there is no end of superlatives that could be used to describe this part of the world, or indeed to describe the newly opened Twr y Felin hotel.
Architect Keith Griffiths was brought up here. Now living in Shanghai, he is responsible for the rebirth of not one, or two but three beautiful buildings all within a stone’s throw of each other here. Roch Castle, Twr y Felin and Penrhiw are each unique.
Roch Castle is the furthest away from the city, but still in single digit miles.
Built in 1806, Twr y Felin – the largest of the three – was a working windmill.
And Penrhiw is a former monastery at the opposite end of the city.
At Twr y Felin, which has a reputation for luxury and fine dining, the walls are packed with specially commissioned artwork.
There’s art of every genre, from the spray-painted Welsh icons who line the walls of the Blas restaurant, to intricate nature scenes and abstract takes on the cliffs and coves of nearby Caldey Island. In all, there are more than 100 pieces of art by 20 artists.
This hotel isn’t just intended to be a stepping stone for visitors wanting a few days’ escape but also an inspiration for artists wanting a retreat in which to work but with a gallery nearby where there’s demand for their pieces – the St Ives of Pembs.
Currently, this tiny city’s art credentials are boosted by the work of an old master. Constable’s Salisbury Cathedral From The Meadows is on display in Oriel y Parc until September.
We split our stay between Twr y Felin and Penrhiw, and there’s much the two have in common. The décor of grey and taupe tones, dark woods and modern furnishings are to be found in both, as are the exceptional staff
Led by manager Paula, no request is too great. It’s a friendly place at the best of times, but Pembrokeshire knows it relies on its tourists and these staff are as good an advert as any for how a hotel should operate.
They effortlessly flit between arrangements at both venues. Guests are able to make use of a free shuttle back to Twr y Felin for the bar and restaurant (Penrhiw has an honesty bar and does breakfast but no evening meal).
Every step is taken to ensure you have everything you need, but if you simply want to soak in the views from your room, you can.
The hotels may be the first of their kind here but they haven’t forgotten their roots. Water is the unmistakeable Ty Nant, Wickedly Welsh’s divine chocolates are left by your bed and the bar offers a taste of Wales’ blossoming booze list with Penderyn whisky and Brecon gin stars of the show.
Although the biggest property, Twr y Felin still has just 19 rooms and two suites but its layout manages to make it feel even smaller than that. For the ultimate stay, the tower offers 360 degree views.
The restoration of Twr y Felin alone – an unexpected rebuild after the 2013 storms – has cost £7m and not a thing has been scrimped on. The place makes you feel like you’re the master of the estate the second you walk in.
Penrhiw has a slightly different, but equally luxurious, feel plus the ultimate accolade – it’s here the owner stays when he flies in.
We followed the stairs to the top floor and after being shown around, we immediately relaxed. Whether it’s the calming music coming from the iPod or the whirr of the Nespresso machine, you immediately feel at ease, sink into an armchair and exhale.
Part of the charm in Pembrokeshire is that you’re rarely far from the sea.
Here, less than two miles from jaw-dropping Whitesands beach, I recommend packing your walking boots.
We ‘did’ the beach ahead of a meal at Blas, a small restaurant seating no more than 30.
Huge care was put into every dish, ingredients each turned into their own piece of art. My partner’s lamb dish was a 3-D construction of wonder. Whichever way we looked at the plate, there was something new to note.
Again, the nod to local produce and detail was special, from the fish to the cheeses on the board to end our meal. An impressive, and very reasonably priced, wine list added to the occasion. For those wanting a lighter note, you can take afternoon tea surrounded by the art-lined walls of the Oriel Lounge.
The owner hopes bringing such luxury to this corner of Wales will boost visitors from afar. If you’re one of those, I can’t recommend it enough. If you’ve never made it to this beautiful part of the world, add it to your bucket list. If you’ve already been and fancy seeing it in a new light, take your pick from this terrific trio.