A welcome addition to the city’s burger scene
THE TASTE TEAM CHECKS OUT HONEST BURGERS IN CARDIFF
THE second of the highly anticipated eateries to open at the brand new city centre Church Street development, Honest Burgers has made a name for itself since its festival roots took hold in 2010.
With locations across the UK, the capital is the first Welsh venue and joins Mowgli and Pho (the latter is still to open) in bringing their hip, mini-chains with decent grub to the city.
Their MO is, you’ll probably guess, burgers. And you’ll be pleased to know that, yes, they are very good burgers.
We went on opening evening, just before the post-work rush and we were greeted by a friendly server at the low-lit and basic, hip-looking restaurant.
Sat in a booth – who doesn’t want to sit at a booth? – we were able to see the kitchen in full swing, and what food was coming out.
The menu is modest but everything you want from a burger place – beefburgers with different toppings, chicken burger and the veggie and vegan choices. Plus a decent spread of sides.
There’s also the local choice, named after and featuring flavours from the home city of the Honest Burger branch.
I chose this, the Cardiff (£12.50). Lamb’s lettuce and pickles sat on top of the bottom half of the, frankly brilliant, gluten-free bun (an extra £1). The best I’ve ever tasted, it was bouncy without being rubbery and it wasn’t dry.
On that bottom layer sat the burger – made by Honest Burger’s own butchery – candied bacon, leeks braised in Tiny Rebel’s Cwtch ale and mustard mayo.
Burgers are ordinarily cooked pink at Honest, thankfully – why have a (non-vegan) Honest burger any other way? The patty was taut yet didn’t taste processed into submission and was cooked perfectly.
I would have liked a few more leeks to be honest, but what I had tasted really good.
This fantastic burger was served with rosemary fries. We were told they’re hand-cut fresh every day and they tasted as such.
My friend had the Plant (£13.50) also served with rosemary fries. Honest Burgers is apparently developing its own vegan burger, but until then, it uses the beloved brand Beyond Meat, which vegans know as looking and tasting uncannily like a beef burger, despite being totally plantbased.
The meaty patty with chipotle mayo and sweet melted cheese, crunchy red onion and gherkin inside a perfect brioche-style bun, was thick and incredibly satisfying.
As a side we had the white cabbage, kholrabi, carrot and pumpkin seed slaw (£3.50).
I really liked this slaw, the flavours of each component were subtle and it wasn’t overly mayo-ed. It tasted different to many other slaws offered as a side at burger joints.
There are no desserts on offer but, to be honest, if you polish off your burger and fries you’ll not need them.
In a city that has a healthy spread of burger experts, Honest Burgers is a welcome addition, especially as it’s in the city centre – many of the best burgers you’ll find in Cardiff are in the outskirts, like Bwydiful at Victoria Park, or Got Beef on Whitchurch Road.
And it provides some healthy competition to the likes of Grazing Shed, a stalwart of the indie-burger scene here.
The setting is nice, it’s not too big and looks great and service is good. It’s a touch pricey, but not unexpected for a restaurant in the city centre.
Definitely worth a try if you like burgers.
■ Honest Burgers, 10 Church Street, Cardiff CF10 1BG. Call 029 2130 3446