RAISE A GLASS
The world of wine is constantly bringing me surprises. Almost every day, I discover a new fact, a new region, a new style of wine, and I think “well, I never knew”.
A recent “I never knew” moment is courtesy of the wine region of Navarra. It is in the north-east of Spain, where grapes can be influenced by sea, mountains or river valleys.
The Bay of Biscay, the Pyrenees and Ebro valley create a patchwork of climates, weather and soils across more than 100km.
Winemakers are nurturing famous international varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, but also hugely champion their native ones; garnacha and tempranillo.
For you and me, that means crunchy fresh reds, whites with freshness and vigour; and deepcoloured pinks. The key adjective for wines from across the region is “freshness”. Here are some wines by way of introduction.
My first is a white. Oh my, what a beautiful bottle with statement, from Bodegas Manzanos the makers of 1864 Castillo de Olite (£13.55, online at shelvedwine.com).
Chardonnay grows at 400m above sea level, which delivers a wine of refreshing acidity. It is aged and fermented in oak, but it’s not in-your-face. It is silky, with white peach, citrus, fennel, nectarine and shortbread. Viña Zorzal Garnacha (£7.25, online at The Wine Society) is a smashing price for a crunch of garnacha. It crackles with the freshness of cherry and raspberry and whooshes with acidity. The grapes grow on vines which are over 35 years old. Picamaderos Crianza 2018 (£11.99, or £9.99, if you’re a supporting “Angel” at nakedwines.com) is a tempranillo blend. It has notes of black fruits, with a hint of snapped twig and herbs. If you see crianza on a label, it indicates oak ageing, and this has had 12 months in oak. Vanilla and pepper spice dabble on the palate.
And so to a star turn with Unsi Terrazas Tinto 2017 (£26, averys. com) which is made from onceforgotten old vine garnacha, growing on steep terraced vineyards in the north of the region. The wine is aged for six months in French oak. It brings black fruit and strawberries to the senses, intertwined with mountainclinging herbs and earth and slate.
Find out more at #navarrawine and @Vinosnavarra on social media
Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.