Inventing the wheel lock
Reliability was key to the success of the wheel-lock action. Robert Morgan explores the advantages and disadvantages of such an ignition system
For those who collect earlier guns, a wheel lock is often a soughtafter ‘must-have’ and forms the centrepiece of any good collection. Out of all the many ignition methods that have been tried over the years, the wheel lock is perhaps the most misunderstood.
How it works
To cock and prime, one must first lift the cock away from the pan. The jaws of the cock usually hold a piece of iron pyrites, not a flint – a common misconception. The wheel (from whence the lock gets its name) has a serrated edge, the uppermost part of which is exposed through a slot in the base of the priming pan. This same wheel has to be cocked or ‘spanned’ about a third of a turn
against the pressure of a strong mainspring using a spanning key. Fine powder is placed in the pan and the sliding pan cover is pulled back over the now primed pan. The cock is lowered by hand until the jaws holding the pyrites rests on the pan cover, also assisted by a flat-spring.
The barrel is loaded in the same way as any other muzzle-loader. When the trigger is pulled the pan cover is automatically slid open by further internal springs, allowing the cock to drop onto the serrated edge of the wheel. At the same time, this is spun a short distance by the power of the mainspring, creating sparks from the pyrites, igniting the pan powder and firing the main charge via a touch-hole. This all sounds like a lengthy process but it was almost 100% reliable.
Mechanism of choice
Wheel locks appeared in the 15th century and were the first successful mechanical ignition method for firearms. Previously, everything had been fired by a lighted taper or match, applied to the touch-hole by hand or by a sprung bar holding the match and lowered to the touch-hole by the squeezing of a trigger. The major problem was that a taper was not weatherproof – not ideal if you were in the midst of battle or hunting game.
The wheel lock changed all that and immediately became the mechanism of choice for hunters. Its cost prohibited the widespread issue to the military, however, who were to persevere with matchlock guns until the advent of the flintlock, although privately purchased wheel locks found their way into the hands of officers and some wealthy cavalry units. When it was usurped by the cheaper to produce flintlock, the wheel lock remained the choice for the wealthy and persisted in certain parts of Europe until the 19th century, a run of more than 400 years. In fact, so revered was it that the Georgians copied earlier examples and then the Victorians copied the Georgian copies, making wheel locks a minefield for the unwary collector today. Often it is the decoration that determines authenticity.
German example
The example pictured here is a late one, probably produced between 1690-1710 and of a particular type known by its German name, ‘Muller-buchse’. These are invariably rifles and have minimal decoration, the embellishment being limited to moulding and carving of the wood. Unfortunately, they were often ‘enhanced’ by the Victorians with inlays and later engraving. The lockplate has a distinctive shape and the wheel is internal and housed below the moulded cover. The barrel is deeply rifled and of approximately 20-bore; it would have given enough accuracy and power to fell stag or wild boar at ranges up to 200 yards, an amazing performance when compared with the flintlock musket of nearly 100 years later.
“Fine powder is placed in the pan and the sliding pan cover is pulled back over the now primed pan”
Conquest 12 bore O/U Ejector 26in barrels, good condition. £200. 01553 828901 (Norfolk)
George Arizaga sidelock game gun (Elderikin Import), used but cared for from new. Hand detachable locks. 28in barrels bored, improved cylinder and half choke
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This feature is not open to members of the gun trade Beretta A303 semi-auto unmarked 28in barrel with 3 mobile chokes and key (F, ¾, ¼) 14
LOP crack and mark free oiled stock and fore-end,
recent complete service. Shoots well and handles most 28g cartridges. Ideal for rough, Pigeon and clay shooting. £450 ovno. RFD trans can be arranged. Pigeon Shooting by Archie Coates, lurcher books by Brian Plummer. Framed prints,spaniel, greyhound, set of 4 shooting scene prints. 3 x Franklin Mint plates with black Labs on noted artists, 2 x royal Worcester food tureens with pheasant and duck on. Please contact bridollin@ hotmail.co.uk, Tel: 07952 476189 (Hartlepool)
Moleskin breeks, British made (Holden) men’s size 32in waist, blue,
in good condition £15. Also, over trousers, in Gore-tex type camouflage fabric (ex French army) with full-length leg zips, tough enough for beating, men’s medium £15. Tel 07710 259977 (Mid Sussex)
Barbour Border vintage, longer length, medium weight wax cotton jacket,
men’s 36in chest £55. Also a Barbour wax cotton hood. Very good condition £15. Tel 07710 259977(Mid Sussex)
High leg boots made by Haix in leather and fabric with breathable waterproof lining and high rubber rand,
ideal shooting boot. Brown size 10 (45) £55. Tel 07710 259977 (Mid Sussex) Tel 01539 443903/ 07779910294 (Cumbria) (built 1960s to same spec as browning B2 Trap) with blue leather motor case. Excellent condition. £950 Tel: 01495 759234
Tasco scope 3-9×50, with mounts,
excellent condition £95, inc p+p. Tel 01495 759234 .
Shotgun motorcase 30in, brown vinyl,
excellent condition. £60, inc p+p. Tel 01495 759234
Webley & Scott 12 bore single 32in barrel 2 ¾in full choke barrel,
In good condition. £120 ono. Laurona O/U late 50s early 60s 12 bore 28in N/E 3in.magnum Choked. Half and Full barrels with twin selective triggers. In good condition. £325 ono. Tel: 01890 820731 (Northumbria)
Don’t be put off buying at auction but do steer clear if you don’t know enough about guns and their quality, or the maker. The same goes for dating guns by proof marks, wood-to-metal fit and the originality of the stock and barrels.
If you’re at all unsure about any gun in a catalogue that catches your fancy, take along someone who does know what to look for.
Over the years I’ve bagged some superb bargains. But I’ve also ended up with some that didn’t quite come up to expectation. You win some, you lose some. It’s all part of the learning curve.
My advice? Check the ejectors with a set of snap caps to make sure the timing is crisp and correct. Spend time looking at the barrels for pitting, dents and chamber-wear.
The same goes for the action and stock: check for any looseness between barrel and action, gaps between breech and standing face and look for fine cracks where wood meets metal in the fore- end, stock and lockplates.
Most modern over-and-unders are machine made and replacement stocks/fore- ends are available at reasonable cost. But when it comes to hand-built English guns, always bear in mind the botheration and tailor your bid accordingly.
Also, choose your auction house with care. Blue- chip companies such as Holts check everything and the catalogue description usually covers it perfectly. But not every auction house is so meticulous.
One auction house I visited recently had a ‘star’ entry by way of a pair of topquality cased sidelocks from a famous provincial maker. However, the serial numbers were miles apart, the stocks didn’t match – and neither did the locks or their engraving. The auctioneer also failed to mention one of the guns had been re-sleeved.
And last but not least, if you’re selling a gun at auction, haggle with the auctioneer over commission fees to save and make money. After all, shy kids don’t get sweets.