Härkila’s Retrieve jacket tested
The editor warms to the latest jacket from Härkila
The Retrieve jacket may look traditional but its materials embody the latest technology to make it one of the most advanced shooting jackets on the market. Härkila has thrown everything at it.
As its name suggests, it is designed primarily for pickers-up and Guns. The gundog owners among you will know that when you are picking-up there is a lot of hanging around as you wait for the birds to fall, followed by a lot of physical movement as they are gathered up and taken to the game cart. Because of this a picker-up will need a jacket that is warm and breathable. Being waterproof is also a necessity.
Combining all these features in one jacket is a tall order. If the jacket is well insulated it will keep you warm when you are standing still, but when you move you will sweat. To get rid of the sweat from an insulated coat you need the garment to be breathable. But if it is breathable it allows moisture through and is not going to be waterproof.
This is the eternal triangle every outdoor clothing brand wrestles with and to get a garment that is 100% breathable and 100% waterproof is the holy grail. Until technology improves, the best we can get is a compromise between both these things.
A partial solution to make waterproof clothes breathable is to factor in a membrane. This layer is designed to wick moisture away from the body and trap it between the waterproof outer and the lining so that moisture does not come back into contact with the wearer’s skin and make them cold and uncomfortable.
Climate control
Gore-Tex is one of the best-known manufacturers of breathable membranes, but there are others on the market and Härkila has developed its own called the Härkila Weather System (HWS). Why go to the trouble of developing your own breathable membrane when Gore-Tex is recognised as one of the best on the market? It’s probably to do with cost. If you can produce your own membrane in-house it is going to work out cheaper and this saving can be passed on to the customer.
At £369, the Retrieve jacket is cheaper than many previous coats from Härkila and many coats in the premium section of the market, and this is why.
Shirt test
Initially, I tested the Retrieve wearing a blue cotton shirt. Blue because it easily reveals patches of perspiration and cotton because it is notoriously bad as a wicking material. To make the membrane in your jacket work properly, it is best to wear wicking garments underneath made from modern synthetic material or merino wool.
Wearing the Retrieve over a blue cotton shirt I took the dog for a three-mile walk.
If I wear a cheap raincoat the whole shirt is damp with perspiration. With the Retrieve my shirt is only damp in places such as the crook of my arms and the small of my back, so the HWS has been doing its job. Is it as good as top-quality Gore-Tex? Possibly not.
I couldn’t conduct a scientific test and there are no current hydrostatic head ratings for Gore-Tex at the moment. I would say the HWS is waterproof and durable enough for the type of sport the Retrieve jacket is intended for. After all, the proof of the pudding is how it fared in the field.
Soft to touch
The outer shell is made from a polycotton mix for durability and is water repellent with taped seams. It is soft to touch and shrugged off heavy rain, and I was glad of the hood, which folds neatly away into the collar.
There is a storm placket over the YKK twoway full-length zip. A feature I really liked
about the storm placket is that it covered the press-studs so that there is no danger of you scratching your gunstock.
Old school
Härkila has gone a bit old school and lined the collar with corduroy. It’s a nice touch and my only criticism would be that corduroy could get a bit soggy in the rain. A small pin badge is included so that you can stick that to the collar and have the full classic look.
Another traditional feature is the tartan lining, which matches the lining from other Härkila products. This has a practical benefit because it has a silky feel and lets the jacket slide over the body for ease of movement.
It looks as if the Scandinavian company has bent over backwards to make the Retrieve jacket appeal to the British market.
With thermo polyshield insulation, the jacket is obviously designed for the cool British climate too. Created from polyester fibres, this insulation is lightweight and quick drying. It provides insulation without bulk, making the coat very comfortable.
The cut
What I like about the jacket is the cut. It allows complete freedom of movement and, because it is reasonably lightweight, isn’t cumbersome. If you want to tailor the look of the jacket there is a drawstring around the waist, which can be cinched up, and this will help keep the cold out too.
The Retrieve has all the usual pockets, including a game pocket – handy for a slip lead, dummy or spent cartridges – and a radio pocket complete with antenna slit. The main pockets have drain holes to prevent them filling with water and can hold about two boxes of cartridges.
Some may criticise it for not having pit zips, but I would argue that you have a fulllength, two-way zip and that can be used to vent warm air.
“Härkila has bent over backwards to make the Retrieve jacket appeal to the British market”
I like the practicality of this jacket as well as its styling. The price point is good and, in terms of value for money, you could pay up to £600 and get a jacket that is only just as good as this. The Retrieve has classic styling and I love the fact that it incorporates the latest technology where needed to make a stylish and versatile shooting jacket.