Stirling Observer

Steve Howarth takes a Yorkshire weekend break that combines past, present and pampering

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FILLED with history and quirky shops and surrounded by the beautiful North Riding area, Helmsley is home to the fourstar Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa – a haven of peace, tranquilit­y, comfort... and Black Sheep bitter!

Towering above the sleepy town is Helmsley Castle – or rather half of it.

It looks like an angry giant has taken a gigantic chainsaw to the huge 12th century tower and cut it clean in half.

What remains is still mightily impressive, despite the best efforts of Cromwell’s forces during the English Civil War.

It was they who were responsibl­e for the carnage, partially destroying the ancient East Tower after the castle fell following a three-month siege so it could never again be used as a stronghold.

If you’re into historic ruins there’s also nearby Rievaulx Abbey.

A peaceful haven of calm now but this is where Henry VIII ran amok in 1538 after dissolving what was once one of the wealthiest abbeys in England.

The area also boasts impressive stately home Duncombe Park, completed in 1713 and rebuilt in 1895 after a massive fire.

Although not currently open to the public because it is still home to the Duncombe family, the impressive National Trust-run gardens are, and the house has been used for period TV and film dramas including BAFTA-winning Parade’s End, starring Benedict Cumberbatc­h.

Parts of the Feversham Arms are equally historic. Originally an old coaching inn, the pub was rebuilt and renamed by the Earl of Feversham in 1855.

It was greatly extended in the 1970s and again in 2009 when the spa was added, resulting in the luxurious facility we see today, boasting 33 rooms, 20 of which are suites with balconies, and a heated outdoor pool and Jacuzzi.

The extensive spa is very popular, as we found out when you-know-who only just managed to get squeezed in for a facial treatment as I tried out the sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi.

Well, you have to put the effort in to really enjoy yourself.

Other treats on offer at the luxurious spa include seven treatment rooms, an aromathera­py room, salt inhalation chamber, monsoon showers and foot spas.

Our visit was followed by an excellent meal in the hotel’s Weathervan­e restaurant, where I enjoyed a superb steak and my ‘much better half’ tucked into a succulent chicken dish.

After a great night’s sleep in a huge double bed and a top-notch full English breakfast, we were off to explore Helmsley and while herself enjoyed the shops I discovered a classic car event running through the streets.

It boasted historic rally cars including Escorts, Avengers and Lancias in the Spring sunshine. Bliss.

Also nearby are attraction­s such as historic Thirsk, a slightly bigger market town, and Scarboroug­h and York are a short drive away.

The Feversham Arms is part of the Pride of Britain chain which has more than 50 locations spread across England, Scotland and Wales including central London hotels, huge stately mansions, country house hotels (including one with an outdoor theatre), castles, and even their own Scottish cruise ship.

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