PUB REVIEW
The Heaton, 474 Didsbury Road, Heaton Mersey, SK4 3BS UNTIL a couple of weeks ago the Heaton was better known as the Frog and Railway.
It had been acquired by local family brewer JW Lees who promised major investment.
The pub ticked over for a few months and then a three-week blitz saw it transformed into the Heaton, which opened for business on June 27.
It’s run by the Zeal Pub Group, a father and daughter business owned by Simon and Lucie Hood, which runs several other pubs in partnership with Lees.
On a day-to-day basis the Heaton is looked after by general manager and head chef Ben Lloyd and enthusiastic assistant manager Gemma Kiersey who took time out of a busy afternoon to chat about the new-look pub.
Gemma is an experienced hand, having worked at various Lees pubs including the Elizabethan in Heaton Moor and the Victorian in Bramhall – her efficient handling of an unexpected rush just as I arrived was testimony to that.
The pub is now light and airy and appears significantly bigger, although I think that’s more down to the improved lighting and decor rather than a major extension – ceilings have been raised and what is now a large dining room at the back of the pub benefits from a new skylight.
The kitchen however occupies a new extension and on the right hand side a new wall has been inserted to create more intimate areas. The furniture is classic modern ‘mix and match’ and good use has been made of old photos and other items of local interest.
Outside at the back there is an attractive drinking area and a massive – really massive – car park.
Food plays a big role here. The kitchen is open from noon until 9pm Monday to Saturday, and until 8pm on Sundays.
You can choose from a taster menu of upmarket bar food or go a-la-carte where a big selection is available – duck, salmon and steaks all feature along with many other options.
On Sundays you can choose from one, two or three-course lunch options. Naturally I was interested in the beer. There are four handpumps on the bar but for the time being only three are in use.
Permanently available are Lees Bitter and MPA plus a guest from the Lees range – Dark filled the role on my visit.
There are a variety of kegs (including Lees Craft Lager) and 16 gins (increasing to 20 shortly).
There’s entertainment too, with live acoustic music on Thursday and Friday from 8pm, and also on the fourth Saturday of the month.
The other three Saturdays see DJ Gus with a mixture of classic funk and soul.
I think it’s a huge improvement and so do plenty of others. Gemma tells me former regulars are coming back and feedback has been universally positive. Do go and see for yourselves – buses 42 and 23/23A will drop you close by.