THE FUTURE’S BRIGHT, THE FUTURE’S ORANGE
JOHN LAW ENJOYS A COLOURFUL CITY BREAK IN AMSTERDAM AND HAARLEM
EASY to reach and easily explored on foot, Amsterdam is the perfect place for a fun break.
There are grand sights to savour, and splendid museums, parks, bars and restaurants to discover.
But if the summer crowds become too much, hop on a bus or tram and within minutes you’ll enjoy life at a less frenetic pace.
Feeling somewhat fragile the morning after Amsterdam’s lively annual King’s Day celebrations, I did just that – taking the 15-minute rail trip to neighbouring Haarlem, a much smaller Dutch town with a character of its own.
Over coffee in the Grand Café, a chandeliered and velvet-draped art nouveau gem, you can gaze out over the medieval Grote Markt, one of the Netherlands’ prettiest city squares.
Dominating the square are the soaring towers of St Bavokerk, a 14th century cathedral whose gothic interior features the world’s largest organ. Once played by Handel and a 10-year-old Mozart, this lavishly gilded beast is a sight to behold.
Hidden away among the cobbled streets are the town’s 21 ‘secret gardens’, which are little courtyards enclosed by charming old almshouses. Most of these Hofjes are free to visit.
Art lovers should head for the Frans Hals Museum to view the world’s largest collection of works by the Dutch master and other stunning exhibits from Holland’s Golden Age. The building itself is a masterpiece and far less busy than Amsterdam’s art museums.
Popular with families is Teylers Museum, founded in 1784 and the country’s oldest. Inquisitive youngsters love its eclectic collection of art, fossils and intriguing scientific instruments.
A surprising bonus for visitors who like to shop is Haarlem’s wealth of classy boutiques and designer stores. They’re reputed to be the best in Holland.
After a full day of walking, culture and shopping some serious refreshment is required.
The place to go for a refreshing beer? Why, church of course!
Jopenkerk underwent a dramatic change of use and has installed gleaming copper hop boilers below its stained-glass windows to become a thriving restaurant and brewery. It boasts of ‘crafting divine beers’, a claim I can vouch for after sipping a Heavy Cross brew weighing in at a challenging 10%.
While Haarlem is an enjoyable excursion option, Amsterdam remains one of Europe’s most popular city-break destinations. Canal cruises through centuries of Dutch history and the world-class museums and galleries, the cosy brown bars and pavement cafés entice people back year after year.
Personal favourites which never fail to delight include the magnificent Rijksmuseum, whose 8,000 treasures include many works by Rembrandt and Vermeer; and the Van Gogh Museum, which on July 27 opens a new exhibition based on the artist’s time spent in the South of France.
Take your sunglasses if you’re visiting Amsterdam on King’s Day, by the way. For suddenly your world turns bright orange.
This celebration of King Willem’s birthday on April 27 sees the Dutch at their jolliest, clad in all things orange, proudly flying orange flags and filling those fabulous historic streets and canals with festive fun.
This is no time for formal sightseeing. The museums are closed and the excursion guides take the day off.
Visitors can join the party watching from canalside bars with a drink in hand as a never-ending procession of boats chug by laden with revellers.
If you enjoy crowds and a good party, King’s Day is a great time to visit. You can recover next day with a gentle tiptoe through the tulips in full bloom at the Keukenhof Spring Gardens.
Alternatively, use the excellent public transport network – or hire a bike – to explore Haarlem or some of the other neighbouring attractions.