Go off grid in Lanzarote
SIMON MURFITT takes a green break in a red hot Canary Islands destination
L ANZAROTE has long been a favourite destination for Brits heading off for some winter sun. And it’s easy to see why, with temperatures rarely slipping below 15°C and plenty to do when you’re not sunning yourself by the pool or on the beach.
The most popular areas to stay are on the east side of the island at Playa Blanca or on the southern coast at Costa Teguise or Puerto Del Carmen.
But the north-west of the island offers warmth and culture for those who want to venture away from the tourist hotspots.
Setting off from Luton at dawn on a cold January morning with snow falling in our wake, we touched down in a different climate at Lanzarote Airport in Arrecife at around 10.30am.
From there, we were picked up by a chauffeur from Finca De Arrieta, an eco-resort run by Lanzarote Retreats a short walk from the beach at Arrieta, on the north-eastern side of the island.
There are 15 holiday homes at the small resort, mostly yurts with outdoor kitchens, as well as cottages and barn conversions, ranging in price from £65-a-night for the eco-surf shack to £342 for the eco-luxury farmhouse which sleeps six and has its own heated pool.
We were staying in a £188-a-night eco-yurt, with an outside kitchen and sun beds. It was spacious and provided a great night’s sleep, blocking out all natural light and keeping you cool.
A sign in our kitchen proclaimed “You are now off grid”, and it felt good to be holidaying in a resort powered almost entirely by wind and sun.
We enjoyed eggs we picked up ourselves straight from the hutches of ‘Cluckingham Palace’ and feeding the two donkeys that live at the site.
The resort looked great for keeping the kids occupied with the animals, trampoline, futsal pitch and play area, as well the communal swimming pool.
There was a friendly atmosphere across the site, with chances to meet the other guests at yoga/pilates lessons, children’s movie nights and a paella evening where I finished off three plates of the delicious seafood, washed down with plenty of Cava.
Each home comes with its own electric hybrid Toyota to explore the island in.
If you don’t stay at Finca De Arrieta, I suggest hiring a car. There’s not much public transport.
Thousands of cyclists travel to the island to make the most of its smooth roads and they are also enjoyble to explore by car, with views of mountains wherever you are.
All the main tourist attractions are well signposted and easily accessible from LZ1, the main road which runs pretty much across the whole island.
Despite being based on the western tip of Lanzarote, it took us less than 45 minutes to drive to Timanfaya National Park on the other side of the island.
The park is home to the Montañas del Fuego (Fire Mountains). Driving through, it felt like we had arrived in Mordor with acres of volcanic rock stretching out in front of us.
On Fire Mountain you can take a bus tour to the top, where you can eat food cooked on the heat of the magma close to the surface.
Another natural wonder to visit is the Cueva De Los Verdes (Green Caves), which were created by a stream of lava from a volcanic eruption.
Inside, the creative lighting created by the artist Jesus Soto makes the tour worthwhile, enhancing the beauty of this spectacular place.
One of the charms of Lanzarote is that it is not overdeveloped, thanks in the most part to the artist and activist César Manrique.
Another one of his triumphs is Mirador Del Rio, where you can look out over the Atlantic and feel as if you are standing on the edge of the world.
But we were equally as happy drinking freshly-squeezed orange juice in the sun at one of the little cafés on the seafront in Arrieta.
If you do visit, make sure you try the meatballs at La Nasa.
The team at the Finca are happy to arrange excursions for you – and they can be sorted prior to your visit, meaning you just have to arrive and enjoy your stay.
The first of these was a submarine safari where you can dive 30 metres below the surface and tick off exotic species including stingrays, dusky groupers and barracuda.
But without doubt the highlight of the trip was a two-hour tour with Buggies Lanzarote, which turns you loose to explore in one of their stripped-down vehicles.
After nearly stalling within the first minute, we were beginning to wonder what we had got ourselves in for, but it turned out to be a wonderful way to view the incredible landscape off the beaten track, while also getting an adrenaline hit.
But then that’s the joy of Lanzarote – it’s action, adventure and relaxation all rolled in to one.
Despite the island’s volanoes, Lanzarote is actually the least mountainous of all the Canary Islands