Hit a natural high on amazing Andes trek
LUCY CLARKEBILLINGS hikes 40 miles and reaches altitudes of 15,000ft on an unforgettable adventure to the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu
REACHING 15,000ft above sea level, the highest point on this epic journey, I suddenly found myself fighting back tears.when I looked across mountains of forest green rising into charcoal peaks glistening with snow, I knew no photograph could do this view justice.
But this was a moment I wouldn’t need reminding of.
Travelling with a group of 25 other adventurers, we were five days into our trek across the Andes in Peru, South America, heading for the ancient remains of Machu Picchu.
Fuelled by almonds, Jelly Babies and sheer determination, we had reached the
Quchusqasa pass – 15 times the height of The Shard – on the Ancascocha trail.
For those seeking the ultimate escape, it’s hard to think of a better location than the Andes, the longest mountain range in the world.
Soaking my aching limbs in a hot bath, nursing a well-earned drink after our epic trek, I reflected on our incredible achievement...
Touching down in the ancient Inca capital of Cusco, we were greeted by our guide, George, and escorted to a local hotel, our base for the first two nights.the effects of
the 10,990ft altitude were immediate, so I took a short nap then went for a stroll to acclimatise.
It may be the gateway to the Inca Trail, but Cusco is so much more than a starting point.
The historic centre is where the Inca held religious ceremonies, but most architectural traces of that civilisation were wiped out by the Spanish, who rebuilt the place in their own style with colonnades, squares and a huge number of churches, including a striking cathedral.
Heading for the plaza, I visited Qoricancha, or Temple of the Sun. Once the richest temple in the Inca empire, what remains today is the masterful stonework.
We spent the first full day as a group getting used to the altitude by doing a practice trek around the Cusco area.
This began with an offering to Pachamama, or Mother Earth, in one of Peru’s oldest and most sacred rituals. For Andean people, Pachamama is considered to be present in all living things, including the mountains, rivers and plants, and also controls the weather.
At George’s instruction, we each held a coca leaf to our lips, looked out into the distance and thought of someone we loved.
As everyone in the group was raising money for their chosen charity, this proved to be a great bonding exercise.
Up with the sunrise, we boarded a coach to Parpishu, where the challenge began.
In response to the increase in tourism on the Inca trail, our leaders changed their Machu Picchu trek itinerary to take us via the less-travelled Ancascocha Trail. This meant that the only other people we saw throughout our trip were local farmers, and even they were few and far between.
As we rounded the corner to stop for lunch, I was surprised to see a tent pitched over a long dining table, with cutlery and napkins.
Our guides were cooking us lunch – three courses of local dishes, which was a much-appreciated treat after all that trekking.
They then packed it all away on to mules and began journeying ahead so they could set up camp before we arrived in the evening. of our trek.at every turn during our ascent, the top of the mountain pass dropped like a curtain to reveal a view more staggering than the one before.
To accommodate the mixed abilities within the group, we took our time, stopping often for the slower walkers to catch up.
We’d met as strangers at
Heathrow Airport but with so many hours spent side by side, we’d quickly become friends.
After lunch, we descended into the river gully to camp, with spectacular views of the Huayanay Glacier.
Always after sunset, it would really hit home just how far from civilisation we were.the night sky in the Andes is peppered with the light of a million stars, opening up to views of southern constellations.
Every evening, we stood outside our tents and watched the Milky Way drift overhead; the jagged silhouettes of the mountains lining the foreground.