Isle of smiles
environment – paddling through the island’s mangrove-lined lagoons close to Nelson’s Dockyard.
The narrow waterways are lined by three types of Mangrove trees – red, black and white – which form a tunnel and shade kayakers from the blazing sun.
The mangroves are vital for the local eco-system and are breeding grounds for crabs, lobsters and various fish.
The tunnels opened up on to a gorgeous white sandy beach littered with bleached conch shells, where we alighted and went on a short hike up a hill known locally as Goat Head. Apparently, there were once various snakes on the island but after the introduction of mongooses to Antigua the reptiles have become virtually extinct.
On our walk to the top we saw plenty of crabs, geckos, and birds such as the zenaida dove, a sparrowlike bananaquit and plovers.
Our guide, who grew up in the local village, delighted us with tales of his childhood playing among the trees and his knowledge of edible plants including the cactus.
On the way back to Verandah our driver Cassim took us along Andy Roberts Drive. Cricket lovers will recognise that name as one of the greatest fast bowlers to grace the game and a key member of the all-conquering West Indian side of the 1970s and 1980s.
When I rocked up to the Coolidge Cricket Ground to watch England’s warm-up game against the island’s President’s XI, I was privileged to find an empty seat next to Sir Andy, who still maintains a fierce interest in the game. Antigua has a reputation for friendliness, and no one I met changed that opinion.
Even Sir Andy was willing to spare time to chat to me about his memories of playing around the world and views on the future of West Indian cricket.
It was the same for other Antiguan batting legends Sir Richie Richardson and Sir Viv Richards, who were equally friendly after I met them following a charity golf tournament set up by Sir Richie.
If they lived in the UK, these icons would probably be mobbed constantly, but because the island is so small and they live their lives so openly, locals acknowledge their presence with no more than a passing nod.
On my final day, we headed to the west coast for a fishing trip with Jason and Nathan of Sugar Island Tours.
Angling wasn’t on my wish list but two hours later I returned to shore invigorated. We had motored out of Jolly Harbour with Jason dropping anchor about 20 minutes later.
Handing us each a rod and baiting the hook Nathan showed me how to cast and keep a finger on the line so I could feel any bites. An hour later I had reeled in a Coney and Red Hind – which I gave to Cassim for his dinner. It was not the adrenaline sport I usually gravitate to, but this is Antigua.
It was fitting that my last activity before heading back to the airport was getting that massage – everything here is about relaxation. And cricket...
The trail emerged to a white sand beach littered with conch shells