Sunday Express

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hear the sounds of the savannah and can get up close to the animals without disturbing them with noise or exhaust fumes.

Starting early in the morning, when the animals are moving around the most, my fellow campers and I drive out to their favourite hangouts then simply watch, listen and wait.

There are few times in life when you witness something that gives you an entirely new feeling.

Seeing a lion stroll inches from the safari jeep unlocked this for me.

Moments earlier two giraffes had galloped gracefully past. Only then did we realise why – their eyesight to spot the lion is much better than ours.

Two back-to-back wow moments, and they didn’t stop there.

During my three-night stay in the Maasai Mara I managed to see the entire ‘big five’ – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalos.

On the daily game drives I also witnessed the glorious sight of cheetahs sunbathing, lion cubs play-fighting and buffalos cleaning themselves in mud baths.

Between the highlights you almost take for granted the dazzle of zebras grazing, warthogs shuffling and hyenas circling. On the way back one evening we bumped into a hippo having dinner.

After all the excitement of the animal encounters, nothing beats a sundowner in the bush. Cold beers taste so much better when a wild giraffe ambles past. Then when the sun has set, you can bask in the glow of the campfire, gaze at the stars and listen to the tales of the Maasai.

Dinner is served in the lounge area by the river or on the decking of your tent. The camp has its own organic vegetable and herb garden all under a monkey-proof cover.

The menu is mainly focused on veggie dishes, with a limited number of meat options to reduce the impact on the environmen­t.

Rhinos are especially rare in the Maasai Mara so the best way to search for them is in the sky.

I took a hot air balloon ride with Governors’ Balloon Safaris, tracking the Mara River. What an extraordin­ary experience, catching sight of rhinos, hippos and elephants going about their morning routine – and a champagne breakfast is included.

Emboo Camp is a proud member of the Maasai community and guests get

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