La dolce vita
Soak up the sun, sea and glamour of Capri and Sorrento
Mingle with the jet set in glamorous Capri
Before arriving in Capri I had lots of ideas about what this hotbed of European glamour might be like. I envisaged the island, lying in majestic grandeur in the middle of the dazzling blue Mediterranean, as stunning yet packed with tourists popping over from the Amalfi Coast to spend a few hours exploring its decadent beauty. I also thought there would be the designer-clad jet set dripping in diamonds, their yachts anchored in the bay. All the above is true, but no prejudging can prepare you for how absolutely magical Capri is.
Not only does it look heavenly, Capri is populated by warm, passionate islanders living on delicious food, glorious wine and lots of relaxation. No wonder superstars such as Leonardo Dicaprio, Taylor Swift and Mariah Carey cross the globe to hop around the array of salubrious watering holes and upscale restaurants. But Capri has been fashionable for decades. It was a favourite destination for old-school stars like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Jackie Onassis – all following in the footsteps of the first Roman emperor Caesar Augustus, who made the island his private playground in 31 BC.
Sadly, we had no private jet or yacht to transport us across the sea from the port of Molo Beverello, close to Naples airport. Instead, we took the 25-minute ferry crossing. On arrival, we were whisked away in a classic 1950s car through winding roads to a salmonpink palace called Punta Tragara. This five-star, Art-deco hotel was built in 1920, its location chosen for the amazing views of the Faraglioni rock formations out at sea.
We were escorted to our sumptuous suite then, after endeavouring to look as elegant as possible to fit in with the chic set, we went down to dinner at Le Monzù restaurant, where chef Lionetti rustled up a feast of locally inspired dishes. Firm favourites were the fish carpaccio, pasta in a lobster sauce and the best Caprese salad we had ever tasted. We finished the evening sipping coffees on the terrace while gazing out over the bay.
The following afternoon we took a stroll into Capri’s town centre, stopping for an Aperol Spritz in Piazza Umberto, which was a fantastic location to watch the flow of perma-tanned gazillionaires ramble among exclusive boutiques, laden with bags of designer booty.
Later, we ate at the Mammà restaurant, a stone’s throw from the piazza and presided over by chef Salvatore La Ragione, who creates masterpieces based on local ingredients. “I wake up every day at 6.30am and I choose
the best products and cook them just like mamma would do,” he says. The combination of exquisite food and excellent service makes Mammà well deserving of its Michelin star.
Back onboard the ferry, we headed across the bay to the glorious Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento’s town centre. Our ornate suite had astonishing views of the sea, a perfect place to watch boats gliding past with the forbidding Mount Vesuvius in the background. This hotel has played host to celebrities including Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Luciano Pavarotti, whose images peer down at you from the wood-panelled walls.
Sorrento is a fabulous town, packed with gorgeous cafés, charming boutiques, shops fit to burst with bottles of local limoncello and lots of friendly bars.
A short train journey away is the ancient city of Pompeii, where you can view the remains of the destruction caused by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Go early or late in the day as it can become horrendously crowded.
This poignant history amid all the glitz and glamour of the region is just one of the many things that makes this part of Italy such a captivating holiday destination.