From fascinating history and fine food to spectacular scenery, this Channel Island has got the lot
Discover fine food and poignant history on this beautiful Channel Island
If we were to tell you that one of the best lunches we’ve ever had was at a restaurant with no table service, a tiny menu and old wooden picnic tables to sit at, you’d probably think we’d lost the plot. But that’s what we loved about Faulkner Fisheries in Jersey. The atmosphere was provided by the sound of the sea crashing against the rocks below us – and the fact the food is rustled up in a Second World War German bunker. The freshest clams, oysters, lobster, calamari and the meatiest prawns we’ve ever seen were all barbecued and finished off in garlic butter. Served with a side order of Jersey Royals, of course.
It was in stark contrast to our snazzy dinner the night before at the Michelin-star Bohemia Bar & Restaurant, where we enjoyed seared scallops and smoked eel followed by Cumbrian lamb with black garlic. But what the fishery lacked in finery, it more than made up for in personality.
For my partner Gareth and I, it was our second visit to the Channel Islands. After a fabulous trip to Guernsey back in 2017, we were well up for exploring the largest of the archipelago. Jersey is just an hour’s flight from Manchester (and considerably warmer) and nothing’s further than 20 minutes away by car – it’s just nine miles long by five across.
With this in mind, we hired a car, which gave us the freedom to roam at our own leisure, and were frankly awe-struck by Jersey’s beauty. While the green landscape and narrow country lanes made us feel like we were in the British Isles, the beaches were like none we’ve come across before. With clear turquoise water and powdery white sand, you could be anywhere in the world – until you spot the fortifications and towers that litter the coastline, one of the many reminders of Jersey’s rich history.
Keen to find out more, we spent a few hours with lawyer turned history guide Marc Yates of Jersey Military Tours. He’s practically Jersey royalty. Marc’s grandparents lived at Mont Orgueil Castle during the Second World War and were forced to hand it over to the Germans when they arrived for the occupation in 1940.
There’s nothing he doesn’t know about the island. Setting off in Marc’s comfortable,
air-conditioned minibus, we stopped off at the prettiest bays and took in some fantastic views across to France. At La Hougue Bie Museum, one of the world’s 10 oldest buildings, we crawled into a Neolithic passage grave and saw the world’s largest Celtic coin hoard. There’s also a chance to step into a replica Neolithic Longhouse here, which has been built by a team of volunteers using traditional tools and authentic Neolithic techniques.
We continued the history theme the following day when we ventured into the eerie Jersey
War Tunnels, which were dug deep into a hillside by forced and slave workers, and now tell the story of the five-year occupation. We experienced a roller coaster of emotions
while wandering round, but left feeling richer for the knowledge we had gained and proud of our neighbours for what they had overcome.
Ready for some relaxation, we headed back to our hotel, The Club Hotel & Spa in Saint Helier, to lounge around the outdoor pool. And then went in search of another dining experience. We found it at the fantastic Sumas in Gorey on the east coast. Sitting on the outdoor terrace surrounded by pastel-coloured cottages with the harbour in the foreground and Mont Orgueil Castle in the background, we ordered lobster which had been caught that day and decided on which Channel Island we would conquer next…