East meets West
Bahrain is a treasure trove of ancient culture and modern thrills
From iconic skyscrapers to ancient treasures, Bahrain is a heady mix of old and new
In searing temperatures of 37°C the last thing I wanted was to don a racing suit and helmet, but this was Formula One on the famous Bahrain International Circuit. Back in March Lewis Hamilton won the Grand Prix here so his were big boots to fill. While Lewis was racing in a state-of-the-art Mercedes, I was in the next best thing – a go-kart. OK, the controls were a little easier to master but the competition was just as intense and the reward – your name emblazoned at the top of the leaderboard.
I hurtled along on the straight and braked whenever instructed but, strangely, my friends seemed to keep lapping me. Still, being slightly cautious was better than getting in a tailspin. Or was it? My three steady laps took me to the bottom of the leaderboard. Despite the ignominy of coming last, it was a fabulous experience but I don’t think I’ll be wrestling Lewis’s crown from him any time soon.
Back at our hotel, the five-star Ritz-carlton, I was on more familiar ground as we went for a cookery lesson in Bahraini cuisine with chef Abbas. Putting on an apron and a chef’s hat was a lot cooler than the racing suit and devouring the baby hammour machbous – a local fish marinated in Bahraini spices – was a moment to savour. Chef Abbas only trusted us to do some chopping but we all excelled when it came to eating.
The Ritz-carlton is a 20-acre site that’s sheer luxury, from its gold and black marble foyer to the opulent villas, with celebrity guests including Amanda Holden, Sarah Ferguson, Julio Iglesias, Simon Cowell and the late Michael Jackson.
There are 12 restaurants to sample, from the Italian Primavera, where the tiramisu is to die for, to the Indian Nirvana restaurant where the curries are aromatic and delicious. The top end of The Ritz-carlton’s foodie offerings is La Table Krug restaurant where the food is a work of art and the Krug champagne is very special.
Bahrain is situated in the Arabian Gulf and is made up of 33 islands. The smallest, Jarada, is a pleasant boat ride from the capital Manama. It’s a deserted island and the perfect place to enjoy a picnic. But we had to be quick because the sand is only visible for two hours a day before it’s washed away by the tide.
Like other countries in the oil-rich Gulf, Bahrain has modern skyscrapers piercing the skyline with the Bahrain World Trade Centre and its two 50-storey sail-shaped towers the most dramatic sight. But the country is rich in culture and history, too. The Bahrain Fort dates back more than 4,000 years and is one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Gulf. Built by the Portuguese, the moated fort was especially stunning at sunset when floodlights illuminate its ancient arches.
The Grand Mosque is another must on a city tour. It’s one of the world’s largest mosques and worth dressing modestly in a black robe and scarf to enter. It can accommodate 7,000 worshippers and is adorned in beautiful Islamic patterns. We were engrossed by our guide who gave us an insight into the Islamic religion and the hallowed building.
More history and culture was on display in the old houses of Muharraq and their traditional architecture. Among the surrounding alleyways whitewashed walls are festooned with vibrant art. Faces and figures peep out and walls are daubed with the red, white and black of the Bahraini flag in a riot of colour.
Famed for its natural pearls, Bahrain is a kingdom rich in cuisine, art, culture and history. It really is the pearl of the Gulf.
For information on Bahrain, contact Bahrain Tourism & Exhibitions Authority (bahrainalwayswarmer.co.uk). Return flights from London Heathrow to Bahrain with Gulf Air start at £509 economy and £2,563 business class (gulfair.com). Fares are subject to change and subject to availability. Rooms at The Ritz-carlton, Bahrain start at £290, including breakfast (ritzcarlton. com/en/hotels/middle-east/bahrain). For airport hotels, parking and more, see Holiday Extras (0800 316 5678, holidayextras.co.uk).