Jamie Goode toasts Rioja’s wonderful whites

Rioja is Spain’s most famous wine region and is dominated by reds, which make up 90% of its production. But white Rioja can be good too and comes in a range of styles.

In the past, these wines used to be quite strong and heavy. While there’s a certain appeal to these, modern tastes are for more fruity whites – and the region is now turning out more.

They tend to be made from a blend, which is why you rarely see grapes named on the label, and the key variety is Viura. Here are some good ones...

Tesco Viña del Cura Rioja Blanco 2019, Spain £5, Tesco, 12.5% alcohol

Made with grapes harvested at night to preserve freshness, this is clean and fruity. It shows mellow citrus fruit with some softness, plus a hint of melon, and it’s a real bargain at £5.

Contino Rioja Blanco 2018, Spain £23.00, The Wine Society, 13% alcohol

This high-end white Rioja is really impressive. It is fresh and supple with nice weight, and is really well balanced with fine nutty hints and lovely citrus and pear fruit. The finish has fine spices.

Morrisons The Best Marques de Los Ríos Rioja Blanco 2019, Spain £13, Morrisons, 13% alcohol

This wine has beautiful aromatics, with some pear, green apple and spice. It has a lovely brightness with some melony richness in the mouth, and good acidity. A lovely. fruity white. Baron Amarillo Rioja Blanco 2019, Spain £4.49, Aldi, 12.5% alcohol

This is a blend of Viura with just a touch of a new variety called Tempranillo Blanco. It’s fresh and bright with white peach, some pear and a lively citrus character. Stunning value.

Baron Amarillo Specially Selected Rioja Blanco NV, Spain £6.99, Aldi, 13% alcohol

A bit of barrel fermentation has given this classy white Rioja some notes of vanilla and cedar, as well as bright pear and white peach fruit. This has nice weight and structure, and would be great with roast chicken.

The Society’s White Rioja 2018, Spain £8.95, The Wine Society, 12.5% alcohol

This is made from the region’s classic white grape varieties: Viura with a splash of Malvasia. It’s fresh and vital, with lemon and pear, and a twist of nutty richness. A versatile food wine.

Cepa Lebrel Rioja Blanco 2018, Spain £4.49, Lidl, 12.5% alcohol

Lots of fruit in this affordable white Rioja, with some grapefruit freshness framing bright pear and green apple fruit, as well as a touch of nectarine. A pure, lively white wine with nice brightness.