How to make nude nails more bare-able
The clean girl manicure is trending, but is it achievable if your natural nails are far from pristine? Beauty director Lynne Hyland finds out
I’ll hold my hands up to it – my nails are more shabby than chic. They’re weak, flakey, rough, unkempt and a whole lot of other adjectives that would make for an unsavoury dating profile.
My past solution has been to disguise them in the darkest, thickest polishes I can find, which is a bit sixth-form sloppy, but I can’t say it’s something that’s troubled me much. Until now.
I defy any beauty lover not to be swayed by the current vogue for ultra-pretty nude nails, whether that’s J.lo’s delicate “milky manicure”, Victoria Beckham’s shell-like polish, the exquisitely slim-tipped French polish from A-list nail artist Harriet Westmoreland, or the “glazed doughnut” finish gleaming from Hailey Bieber’s Instagram feed.
Yup, the whole clean girl aesthetic has made its way to our fingertips, from the neutral palette to the perfectly smooth and glowy finish. “It’s all about a fresh, minimalist, dewy manicure that looks effortlessly pulled together – think the ‘no make-up make-up look’ for your nails,” says celebrity nail guru Leighton Denny MBE (leightondenny.com).
It’s obviously great for those with the time, money and lifestyle for acrylic nail upkeep, but what I’m keen to know is this: can even grubby, short, natural nails clean up their act?
“Yes, absolutely,” assures Leighton. “You don’t need long nails for a beautiful, barely there manicure. Groomed nails look great, no matter their length.”
Give your nails a Glow-up
Like any clean girl regime, the new minimal mani is founded on moisturising – and not just hand cream.
“I can see a huge difference in clients that oil their cuticles versus those that don’t,” says celebrity nail artist and Essie ambassador Michelle Humphrey (@nailsbymh). “The oil nourishes the skin around nails, preventing hangnails, and also helps keep the nail nice and flexible.”
While you don’t need talons to pull off this look, you want whatever length you have to be in the best possible condition – so hold fire on varnish while you bootcamp weak nails with a strengthening treatment.
Leighton says, “You can turn even neglected, damaged, dry nails around in 14 days by using my Nail Rebirth Capsules, £23. Apply daily on polish-free nails and massage into the nail bed.”
If your nails are prone to breakage and also looking dull, Michelle recommends Essie Hard To Resist purple strengthener, £9.99, as a great flash fix. “The purple tint balances yellow tones, a bit like hair toner for blondes – so it’s perfect for anyone with nail discolouration.”
Maximise your canvas
A great neutral mani starts with shapely nails. Michelle and Leighton opt for glass or crystal files as these are gentler on the nails and help seal the free edge, reducing the chance of fraying, chipping and breakage.
“Before you paint, use a nail brush to exfoliate around the nail and clean any debris from underneath,” says Michelle. “I love Hydrea London Beechwood
eco-friendly brush, £4.99.“
Roni Dawkins-alder from the Nails Inc pro team adds, “Even if your nails are short, you can create the illusion of a longer, more elegant nail bed by gently pushing back the cuticles and nipping off any hangnails. Buffing your nails adds shine, helps remove staining and makes your manicure last longer – but don’t overdo it, as it can make them weaker.”
PAINT NUDES like A PRO
Neutral polishes show up flaws more than darker shades so
always use a base coat to smooth over ridges before you paint. “Avoid applying polish too thickly,” says Leighton. “You’ll end up with dragging, streaking, indentations, bubbling and/or smudges. Also, thick coats are more likely to chip at the tips.”
For the purist’s clean girl look, you’re aiming for a sheer polish that enhances your own nail plate below. “If you have cooler toned skin, opt for a neutral with blue undertones. If your skin tone is warmer, opt for something pinker like Essie Ballet Slippers,” says Michelle.
Or, for a “glazed doughnut” spin, look for a gleamy, iridescent polish.
The term “nude nails” covers such a broad neutral spectrum, as it’s more about what flatters your skin tone than a literal match. Leighton says finding your ideal shades is mostly down to what you love the look of on your fingertips. However, as a starting point, he loves creamy almonds and dusty pink for olive skin tones, creamy nudes with pink or peach undertones for medium tones, and milky pink on pale skin tones.
“Pretty much all shades will flatter a dark skin tone, but for a ‘your nails but better’ look, try deep beige and caramel shades, or a chocolate with red/orange undertones,” Leighton says.