Jamie Goode

Our expert makes merry with sherry to spice up those chilly autumn nights

There’s a remarkable wine region in the south of Spain where vineyards close to three towns – Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria – make some of the most complex and best value wines, known in English as sherry.

These are made mostly from one grape variety, Palomino, with alcohol added during a process known as fortification. The wines vary from bright, light and tangy, to dark and heavy. Here are some to try.

Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla £10.99, Waitrose,

15% alcohol

Often the lightest style of sherry, this should be treated like a white wine once open. Aromatic with apple notes, it’s fresh and tangy.

Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana, £9.99, Majestic, 15% alcohol

Linear and savoury with a salty edge to the citrus fruit. This has brightness with nutty hints. Very stylish.

Bodegas Tradicion Fino Tradición, £36.56, Justerini & Brooks, 15% alcohol

This is remarkable. Golden yellow in colour with a focused crystalline nose of apple and lemon and spicy hints. Quite thrilling.

Morrisons The Best Palo Cortado Dry, £6.25/half bottle, 19% alcohol

Bronze/brown in colour with aromas of raisins, almonds and orange peel. Spicy, powerful and tangy.

Morrisons The Best Oloroso Dry, £6.50/half bottle, 20% alcohol

This is a lovely intense wine that’s rich with notes of marmalade and wood spice. Really vibrant, this is completely dry, with flavours from long ageing in cask.

Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Oloroso Medium Dry, £8 for 500ml, 20% alcohol

Copper/bronze in colour, this is nutty and raisiny on the nose with a mouth showing fine spicy notes and tangy treacle and slightly salty acidity on the finish. There’s a bit of sweetness here, but not too much.

Gonzalez Byass Matusalem Sherry VORS, £19.99/ half bottle, Waitrose, 20.5% alcohol

Full brown in colour, this sweet sherry is extremely complex and concentrated, with aromas of raisin, tar, treacle and spice. It has a lovely rich, sweet palate and flavours encompassing old casks, Christmas cake, honey and roasted almonds.