Sunday Express - S

Jamie Goode

Our expert shares seven favourite wines from southern France

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With its sunny climate, for a long time the south of France was a good place for making cheap wine in large quantities. And most wines were pretty forgettabl­e.

But there’s been a quality revolution and now you can find some really interestin­g southern French wines. Here are some current favourites.

Château Rives-blanques Dédicace Chenin Blanc Limoux, 2022, 12.5% alcohol, £13.50, The Wine Society

It’s rare to find a Chenin Blanc from the south of France, but this works. It’s bright and supple with lemon and cherry fruit, a bit of spiciness, and a nice stony edge to the fruit. There’s a delicacy to this, with a subtle bitter cherry and lime edge to the finish.

Gérard Bertrand Orange Gold Vin Biologique, 2021, 13% alcohol, £19, Ocado

This is an orange wine because it is made of white grapes fermented on their skins, just as a red wine would be. It’s fresh and fine with peach, pear and apricot aromatics, as well as some spicy notes. In the mouth there’s some grainy structure as well as freshness.

Artisans Partisans Tu Es Pour Moi Unique Au Monde, Maccabeu, 2023, 12.5% alcohol, £10.30, The Wine Society

Fresh, delicate aromas of lemon and pear drops with a wet stone edge lead into a finely spiced, tapering finish. There’s such purity and delicacy here, it’s a really bright, fruit-driven delight.

Calmel & Joseph Ams Tram Gram Pomone Le Vin Orange, 2022, 13% alcohol, £14.99, Field & Fawcett, Talking Wines, Latitude Wines

A blend of Terret Gris, Marsanne and Roussanne with no added sulfites and some fermentati­on on the skins. Golden in colour, this is sweetly aromatic with peach, orange peel and tangerine. The palate is rich with pear, apple, spice and a hint of brandy.

Château des Adouzes Le Tigre Faugères, 2020, 13.5% alcohol, £12, Justerinis

Floral and sweetly aromatic with a stony edge to the black cherry fruit. It’s supple, elegant and really fine with a hint of pepper and herbs. Fresh, textural and really expressive.

Gayda Sphere Chardonnay 2023, 13.5% alcohol, £13, Cambridge Wine Merchants

A beautifull­y rounded Chardonnay with pear, pineapple and peach fruit and nice spicy detail. It’s rich and full with a sense of depth and generosity, but it stays fresh. Mealy and spicy on the finish.

Jean Lafon Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé NV, 12% alcohol, £17.99 Majestic, £14.99 mix six

Limoux, in the Languedoc, makes interestin­g fizz – this blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir is an appealing pale pink in colour and has lovely bright cherry, mandarin and lemon, with some sweetness rounding things out. Lovely purity here: it’s just so drinkable.

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