Expectations

covered with 2,711 different sized concrete slabs in a grid system (stiftung-denkmal.de/en). It is easy to lose yourself in it as you search for the entrance to the deeply moving underground visitor centre.

Swallowed up in those bewildering blocks, laid in memory of six million vanished souls, it’s hard to shake off a gnawing sense of isolation.

And so we headed in contemplative silence back West for dinner at the buzzing 12 Apostel, which has a pizza named after each one.

The spicy Judas is aptly hot as hell, but I managed it with the help of a couple of beers. Then back to our hotel, the H10 just off the Ku’damm, chic, comfortable and quiet with a spacious room and fantastic breakfasts.

Handily next door to a U-bahn station too, and a short walk from the KaDeWe, a sort of Berliner Harvey Nicks, for grabbing last minute pressies.

On the way to Tegel airport next day there was time for a stroll in the beautiful grounds of 17th century Charlottenburg Palace, the largest in Berlin, along with people pulling suitcases in the sunshine.

All of us snatching a final more ancient feel of one of the world’s most thought-provoking cities.

Loveholidays has three nights at the four-star H10 Berlin Ku’damm hotel in Berlin from £206 per person on a room-only basis, including flights from Stansted on November 16. Price based on two adults sharing. Manchester departure from £232 per person.