Invade Normandy
parmesan gratin, followed by a decadent dessert of caramelised apple, shortbread and tonka mousse.
Deauville is inextricably linked to horses and equestrian events, hosting international competitions and polo, so next morning I walk from my hotel, the Mercure, to Deauville-La Touques – one of two race courses in the town.
The training centre at Deauville takes on horses throughout the year and it’s a privilege to admire the stables brimming with glossy thoroughbreds – even if you’re not a racing fan.
I move on to the fairytale Villa Strassburger around the corner. Built in 1907, for Baron Henri de Rothschild, the property is one of Deauville’s most beautiful heritage manor houses open to tourists in summer.
Just up the coast is Deauville’s familyfriendly sister resort of Trouville-surMer, with its huge beach, kids’ rides and activities, and a harbour full of yachts.
After crossing the Touques River, which separates the two seaside towns, I go for a wander around the passages and alleys and end up buying brightly coloured tins of sardines at La BelleIloise as souvenirs.
The scent of freshly-baked madeleines at La Madeleine de Proust makes the delicate shell-shaped sponge cakes impossible to resist.
I finish the day perched on a bar stool at the seafood market, tucking into small plates of juicy langoustine, fresh whelks and oysters fished from the Channel, with chilled glasses of white.
While there’s plenty to fill a weekend in Deauville and Trouville, if you’re staying for longer, drive south to the Pays d’Auge, a hilly area in the heart of Normandy, where Camembert, Livarot and Pont L’Evêque cheeses are made.
Its orchards are also the source of Normandy’s deliciously fruity ciders and Calvados.
Those with a passion for the potent apple brandy should head to the Calvados Experience. The tour reveals the secret of Calvados production in the apple press and fermentation room, the art of distillation, ageing and blending. I particu
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larly enjoyed the tasting session at the end – Calvados with tonic and pink grapefruit liqueur was a favourite.
For further day- tripping, there’s the historic fishing harbour of Honfleur on the Seine estuary lined with towering 18th- century townhouses – and the Bayeaux Tapestry and D-Day landing beaches are less than an hour away. You’ll adore Deauville.