Ice ice baby
Need to chill? Claire Spreadbury heads out on the ultra-luxe trip of a lifetime in a remote and snow-covered Icelandic resort
There’s something about a pandemic that makes you crave travel to distant lands; locations that couldn’t feel further from the four walls you see almost every waking second.
Deplar Farm retreat is such a place, on Iceland’s Troll Peninsula, with just snow and stars for miles on end.
Although the capital, Reykjavik, is less than a three-hour flight from the UK, you then need to head to the domestic airport for another flight north, or endure a very long road trip.
It feels like we’ve landed on Mars as we drive past volcanic mounds. Tiny cracks of light peep through the sky between moody charcoal grey clouds and the misty mountainscape.
After jetting over to Akureyri Airport, we drive for over an hour to uber-luxe Deplar Farm – all wooden-lodge chic, and with just 12 bedrooms.
The snow is so fresh and untouched, it looks like freshly-ironed bedsheets stretched across a mattress of land.
I’m only in Iceland for a couple of
PLAYING IT COOL James and Claire (oh-so expensive) days, but all that’s on the agenda is fun – and I’m hoping to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights.
Eleven Experience has 13 global properties and prides itself on being an adventure travel company. So, although everything at Deplar has been thought out – from its decor to the way staff mix with guests so you feel like one family – the focus is on outdoor experiences.
Every guest is assigned a guide, and pre-holiday forms let them work out which activities you’re best suited to.
I’m here with my husband, James. He’s more of a snow lover than me, but I’m suited and booted and ready for action.
Senya, our guide, takes us on a snow-shoe hike. We walk for what feels likes miles, taking in the surrounding beauty, until Senya senses a change in the weather and we return to Deplar. The building is more than 100 years old and is the bucket list-ticking epitome of hygge Scandi cosiness. Comfy seating
areas abound, with chunky rugs and tabletops made of tree trunks. Telescopes sit by giant glass windows, waiting for stars to shoot or the aurora to show.
Dinner is served in a room next to a huge crackling fire. One table seats all the guests, who swap stories of their heroic activities of the day.
Three courses come paired with wines at no extra cost, and there are mini bars everywhere, stashed with Icelandic ale, lager, juices, water and sodas. You’re encouraged to take what you need. The vibe is uber-relaxed and guests are told to come to dinner in PJs and slippers if they want.
After waking to find snow hanging off the roof like dollops of gingerbread-house icing, we head out in a tiny plane for the Diamond Circle Air Tour.
First over Godafoss, known as the waterfall of the Gods. Snowy mountain tops are rippled like a Viennetta as we fly over the islets of Myvatn, taking in pseudo craters, sulphur pools and the Krafla power plant. Troll Peninsula’s magnificent mountain range comes into view as we head into Eyjafjordur, one of Iceland’s longest fjords.
It’s an experience I’ll never forget, and on the way back I know there’s one more sight I want to see. Cocooned in our bedroom, there’s a frantic knock at the door. “The northern lights are happening right now,” says Ivan the sommelier.
It’s just gone 6pm and we dash out, trying to take photos that do justice to the sky as streaks of green dance across the dark, and purple swirls wheel over the top of the hotel.
The barman fills glass after glass, topping up our giddiness, and soon one guest is on the stage.
This is extreme karaoke, with a full band of instruments so you can live out your rock star dreams. And it has a celebrity seal of approval – Justin Timberlake played a full set here recently.
It’s quite a journey to Deplar, and you’ll need the means and urge to splurge (think Lottery win).
But nature will repay you with sights and sounds that will stay in your heart for ever.
As streaks of green dance across the dark, purple swirls wheel overhead
BOOK IT
Rates at Deplar Farm, Troll Peninsula, sula, northern Iceland, during winter start at £1,370pppn pppn based on two sharing on premium all-inclusive with all customised day/night adventure itineraries and gear, experience manager, gym, spa, airport transfers. elevenexperience.com
MORE INFO
visiticeland.com - Iceland is now on the UK Covid safe travel corridor but Icelandic dic rules says visitors must currently choose between een a 14-day quarantine or a double test with a quarantine for 4-5 days.
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