Marvel of the Midlands
Fiona Whitty heads to Coventry, this year’s UK City of Culture, to find out what there is on offer
It’s been England’s capital and home to three cathedrals, as well as the birthplace of the bike, UK car-making and the jet engine. And as Coventry revels in its tenure as UK City Of Culture with a raft of festivals and events, there’s never been a better time for a family to visit – as I did with Elin, 16, Rosie, 15, and 12-year-old Freddie.
Here’s our handy guide to what should be on every visitor’s Coventry hit list.
DO
Visit Coventry Transport Museum to discover the city’s pioneering feats in the bicycle and car-making industries (£14 adult/£7 child, transport-museum.com)
It was here in 1885 that the first ever modern-day bike – with equal-sized wheels and a chain driving the rear one – was invented by John Kemp Starley.
Soon Coventry was the largest producer in the world.
By 1897 Harry Lawson had launched Britain’s first car – the Coventry Daimler – and the city went on to become the country’s car-manufacturing hub, home to Austin, Rover, Triumph, Standard and more. The museum houses the world’s largest collection of British road vehicles including Thrust SSC, the fastest car on the planet with a top speed of 763mph.
Don’t miss the Our Future Moves exhibition, where you can delve into tomorrow’s self-driving, electric and other new-age vehicles that the region is spearheading. It’s on until October 31. Outside the museum stands the statue of Coventry-born Sir Frank Whittle, whose jet engine invention revolutionalised air travel.
The striking glass Herbert Art Gallery and Museum is also worth a trip (theherbert.org).
Focusing on Coventry’s history, arts and culture, it includes a family-friendly Lady Godiva gallery about how the wife of Earl Leofric, Lord of Coventry, is said to have ridden naked through the streets to persuade her husband to abolish taxes. Music fans should visit the 2 Tone exhibition, which runs until September 12 and charts the genre and record label which originated in the city in the 1970s with the likes of The Specials and The Selecter ( free but booking advised).
Nearby you can walk along medieval cobbled streets in the footsteps of kings, queens and government officials. Henry IV and Henry VI moved both the royal court and parliament to Coventry during parts of their reigns, making it England’s capital.
For a fun overview of the city try a lively Hideous History walking tour with guide Jo Phillips (£15pp, walkingtourscoventry.co.uk).
Her grisly and ghostly tales include ones about Britain’s most prolific hangman William Calcraft, who drew huge crowds to his 450 executions because of his infamous antics like pulling victims’ legs or jumping on their shoulders to help them die quicker.
On our tour, Jo also revealed how the skull of one hanging victim – arsenic murderer Mary Ann Higgins – mysteriously turned up decades later on the doorstep of the Herbert.
SEE
If there’s one sight you can’t miss it’s Coventry’s bombed-out Gothic cathedral. During the German Blitz in November 1940, St Michael’s was hit by a volley of bombs which left just its walls and 295ft spire standing.
The eerie ruins remain today, right next to the modern St Michael’s erected in the aftermath. You can wander around both (coventrycathedral.org.uk).
Nearby lie the remains of Coventry’s first ever cathedral St Mary’s, founded as a priory by Leofric and Godiva in 1043 and later destroyed during Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries.
It’s a great time to look around Coventry’s central shopping square Broadgate – and not just for the shops and restaurants.
Draped across are hundreds of colourful ribbons decorated with flags and messages by local schoolchildren.
While you’re there, you can also see Lady Godiva’s statue.
Delve into tomorrow’s self-driving, electric and new-age vehicles
REFUEL
Stroll down to Factory – the new kid on the block – that’s just opened at FarGo village, Coventry’s creative quarter for independent businesses ( fargovillage.co.uk/factory).
It’s home to a bar and several food stalls serving burgers, pizza, loaded fries and the most amazing vegetarian Indian wraps from The Paneer Wrap Street Food Company. Owner Dev vowed to bring paneer cheese to the masses – his “spicy one” certainly turned me into a fan.
For tasty Caribbean food like saltfish fritters and mutton curry – plus sensational cocktails – restaurant Esmie’s is also nearby (esmies.co.uk).
PLAY
If you’re over at FarGo Village have a go at a panic room at nearby Escape Live ( from £15pp, escapelive.co.uk).
Their Armageddon game is perfect for families who fancy trying their hand at intercepting an asteroid that’s heading for the city.
Indoor waterpark The Wave is right in the city centre and houses a host of white-knuckle rides, including the Torrent where you’re held in a pod before being released through trap doors down a huge chute at 36ft a second ( from £11.50 adult, from £9 child, thewavecoventry.com).
On the Rapids ride you can grab a double rubber ring with a pal and prepare to be flung uphill by powerful water jets as well as downhill.
It’s like a rollercoaster on water.
STAY
The place to bed down right now is the newly opened Telegraph Hotel.
Housed in the four-storey building on Corporation Street that was home to the Coventry Evening Telegraph newspaper for 53 years, the cool hotel seeks to retain a 1950s’ office feel.
Designers have carefully restored the original terrazzo flooring, wood panelling, stair balustrades, marble pillars and the newspaper’s old brass-and-glass front doors. The spacious rooms come with sleek teak desks, newspaper trays, pinboards and former front pages.
Ours even contained a classic coffee table with a fern leaf-patterned Formica top while other retro touches include vintage books and stand-out pink- or green-tiled bathrooms.
A rooftop bar with views over Belgrade Plaza and serving cocktails like the Lady Godiva or Covmopolitan brings it all bang up-to-date.
Doubles for two from £51 room only, and from £71 B&B (telegraphhotel.com).
Rooftop bar with views over Belgrade Plaza brings it all bang up-to-date
EXPLORE
Slip outside the city for a mix of quiet countryside and high thrills. Feel like lords and ladies with afternoon tea at Coombe Abbey – a 12th-century mansion once home to the future Elizabeth I and now a plush hotel (coombeabbey.com).
Elsewhere, adrenalin junkies can try the GoApe courses in the surrounding 500-acre park (goape. co.uk) – or have a go at indoor sky diving, snorkelling with sharks and more at Bear Grylls Adventure
(beargryllsadventure.com).