Wine and dine at Project 72 Squeeze into bohemian bar Graffiti

As a proud city of migrants, Novi Sad’s cuisine is a blend of multiple cultures. Typical dishes from Vojvodina (the local region) include poppy seeds on pasta or dumplings, and red pepper tapenade ajvar. Try the latter as an ice cream at innovative restaurant Project 72 (Kosovska 15). A two-course meal with excellent wines from nearby Fruska Gora costs around £25.

A tumultuous past has taught Novi Sad-ers to live for the moment, making this one of the most fun places to party in Europe. Bars are small, hidden and always packed – and smoking is still legal indoors, so be prepared for an even more cloudy, clandestine experience. There are no distinct cool districts – people stroll from one bar to the next – but Graffiti (Kosovska 21A) is worth seeking out. Listen to jazz while admiring the quirky decor, including a glass cabinet of butterflies and a pair of stag antlers above the bar.