Going on a city break? Why not make it a green one? By Rosaleen Fenton
What does Britain’s greenest city centre look like? Well, for starters it has more trees per person than any other urban centre. More vegetation, more parks and sports fields too.
The latest winner, following a study by the University of
Sheffield, is Exeter, beating off competition from Islington in London, Bristol, Bournemouth and Cambridge.
It’s a welcome accolade for the Devon city famously described by travel writer Bill Bryson as “not an easy place to love” in his 1995 book Notes From A Small Island.
Exeter lost a great deal of its historic architecture to bombing in the Second World War and the focus of its subsequent rebuilding was on cost and convenience rather than aesthetics. But life has seriously moved on from the American-British author’s rather harsh assessment – and Exeter’s gong for its green heart is just one of the reasons that prove it.
Add in its rich history, pockets of which remain beautifully preserved, colourful quayside, mix of modern and independent shops, plus an excellent choice of restaurants, and there is actually a lot to love about this city.
The thousands of students who flock to the University of Exeter – ranked in the UK’s top 20 – give it a youthful buzz, there’s a thrilling rugby scene, plus it is an ideal city base for hiking its hilly surroundings such as Dartmoor National Park or trips to classic seaside towns like Exmouth, Dawlish and Teignmouth.
So if you’re one of the many travellers who’ve whizzed past it on your way to Cornwall, now’s the time to stop off and stay a while to experience the wonder of urban eco-tourism.
History
Pre-dating the arrival of the Romans in AD 50, Exeter’s history is long and fascinating and reflected in its collection of heritage attractions. Considered one of the finest in Europe, the city’s gothic cathedral is its greatest asset and bursting with architectural treasures. Step inside to discover the Minstrels’ Gallery, the organ and the astronomical clock, as well as viewing the longest stretch of unbroken gothic vaulting in the world.
You can go below street level to experience Exeter’s Underground Passages, built to house the pipes that brought clean drinking water from the natural springs outside the city in medieval times. A guided tour takes you down the dark and narrow tunnels where you’ll hear stories of wars, sieges, plague and pestilence.
Walk the City Wall Trail which tells the story of Exeter’s 2,000-year-old city wall, 70% of which still remains.
When it’s time for a breather, find a quiet spot in the Grade II listed Northernhay Gardens, the oldest public gardens in England, and neighbouring Rougemont Gardens which originally formed part of the defences to Exeter Castle.
Quayside
Just a 10-minute walk from the city centre is Exeter’s quayside, the gateway to the scenic Exe Estuary.
Historically, Exeter was a very wealthy city due to its prominence in the woollen cloth industry, the
quayside played a big part in this with cloth being finished on Exe Island before being loaded onto ships for exporting to Europe. Look out for the Custom House, dating back to 1680, the oldest in Britain, which now houses lively displays, illustrations and artefacts which bring the history and development of Exeter’s quayside to life.
The area is also now a place to eat, shop and enjoy being down by the river. Bike hire is available for a spin along the flat cycle paths which follow the route of the River Exe and Canal, passing waterside pubs along the way. You can also take out a canoe, kayak or paddleboard.
Eat, drink, shop
Locals rave about Harry’s Restaurant, founded by the Pounds family 25 years ago, for its lovely menu featuring delights such as dusted calamari with sweet chilli sauce, Devon crab linguine, steaks and burgers. Start with a classic
Harry’s Bellini, harrysrestaurants.co.uk
Trendy spot The Stage, on Magdalen Road, offers an immersive six or four-course tasting menu by the Taco Boys, who used to serve tacos by the beach in
Polzeath, Cornwall, before decamping to Exeter.
Sample beautiful portions of cured salmon tartar, pan-seared Brixham cod and elderberry wine gums, stagerestaurant.co.uk
Quayside Distillery is a stylish venue where you can rustle up your very own gin tipple to suit your taste and go on a distillery tour before sinking local beers and ciders. Then there are their own gin creations which are served imaginatively in jars and lightbulbs, with nibbles and sharing boards, quaysidedistillery.co.uk Shopping in Exeter is a complete joy with its mix of quality high street names such as Superdry, Ted Baker and Oliver Bonas at Princesshay shopping centre, along with Urban Outfitters, Finisterre and White Stuff on High Street. Head to Gandy Street in Exeter’s historic centre and the West Quarter
to find independent boutiques and some vintage items.
Where to stay
Exeter’s Hotel du Vin is a former Victorian eye infirmary in a convenient central location with views of the cathedral. Contrasting with its characterful red brick design is its rather special and very sleek indoorto-outdoor pool and luxurious spa.
There’s also its well-kept garden with circular lawn, which is great for lounging around in summer while enjoying al fresco drinks.
Bedrooms are fresh and bright with colourful velvet sofas and soft furnishings, opulent headboards and original artworks.
Its restaurant, Bistro, has an open ‘theatre-style’ kitchen, is stylishly lit and overlooks the garden. The menu focuses on home-style French cooking and changes with the seasons, but firm favourites remain.
For starters, we enjoyed tiger prawns with chilli and garlic (£11.95), rump steak served pink with pomme frites and bearnaise sauce (£23.95), followed by crème brûlée (£7.50). As always, there’s a wonderful wine list and a sommelier to advise. At breakfast the full English was perfectly cooked and arrived promptly and hot. Veggie and vegan options available as well as a children’s menu.
Car parking is first come, first served and £15 for overnight.
One of the finest in Europe, the cathedral is its greatest asset
How to get there
GWR offers a 2hr 10min direct service between London Paddington and Exeter with around 50 trains running both ways per day and they usually depart every half an hour.
There is a first class lounge in London with complimentary hot and cold drinks as well as free wi-fi.
Onboard, the first class carriage is sleek, impressive and spacious with free sandwiches and your drinks served at your oh-so comfortable seat. gwr.com