All decked out
Havila Voyages is the perfect way to cruise Norway, says Dave Monk
This summer why not swap your car for a fjord transit through some of the most stunning scenery in the world – and even enjoy a bit of 24-hour sunshine?
Each day, coastal ships sail the 130-year-old route that links 34 ports on Norway’s west coast, from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north.
Even when I boarded Havila Castor – one of a planned four-strong fleet from new line Havila Voyages – for the final four days of that journey, we popped into 19 towns. With up to seven to visit in a day, some stays last only 10 minutes.
From early morning until late at night you can meet travellers waiting in the foyer with luggage to get off at the next stop. There’s a real mix of people, from those who have paid £20 as a foot passenger visiting a neighbouring port, to big spenders who have forked out £20,000 for a top suite with free minibar, balcony and hot tub.
What all 640 passengers get to enjoy along the route is silence and spectacular views. I found a spot where I could see panoramic windows on both the port and starboard sides as well as bow and stern, to watch mountains, islands and scattered villages pass by.
Unlike other cruise ships, there aren’t excited announcements about theatre shows or art auctions – not even piped music or a lone guitarist – just the low hum of the engines.
In sensitive areas, such as the beautiful Geirangerfjord, the captain can switch from using liquid natural gas – the cleanest fossil fuel – to run on batteries for up to four hours, allowing passengers to hear birdsong on deck.
Havila Castor can even plug into the mains when in port – being Norway, most electricity comes from renewables.
The line also tries to keep food waste to a minimum by not having buffets. Instead, passengers are served a full-service breakfast and a selection of small plates for lunch, while dinner is a la carte.
There’s even a fine-dining restaurant offering dishes including reindeer, duck and local cod while a small cafe serves snacks such as burgers.
I began my trip by flying into Bodø, one of the European Capitals of Culture in 2024, where I was already in the Arctic Circle. But even when the temperatures are milder – they reach 14C in July – you’re still reminded of the Cold War.
On a visit to the aviation museum I climbed an old control tower to see the nuclear bunker that used to house American F-16 fighter jets. This is a part of the world where they don’t see the sun for four weeks during the winter – although they’re rewarded with four weeks of constant daylight in the summer.
A guide on an Arctic walk along the shoreline filled me in on the proud history of the Vikings, but there’s also the chance in summer to ride a rigid inflatable boat to the Saltstraumen, the most powerful tidal current in the world, where fast-flowing whirlpools can reach 26ft across.
When I was back on Havila Castor I was able to tour the six passenger decks, including two observation lounges – one has a cosy corner with a realistic flickering log fire effect. Outside, there are two hot tubs and saunas.
Like other cruise lines, Havila
Voyages offers shore excursions and I took one to North Cape, the northernmost point of continental Europe, marked by the sculpture of a globe and a museum that shows a panoramic film.
Another night, some passengers got off to take part in a recreation of a Viking feast. Other trips on offer during the cruise include hiking, kayaking, e-biking and wildlife spotting.
Departing Kirkenes, I went to the Russian border, watched king crabs being caught (and later ate them freshly cooked) then stayed a night in the town’s Snowhotel which is open all year round.
The (very) chilled evening began in the bar, drinking shots before smashing the glasses made of ice against the frozen tables. The supplied sleeping bag – built to withstand temperatures of -30C – felt toasty in my -4C room.
My journey was in winter so I was also able to tick off husky mushing, snowmobiling and even seeing the Northern Lights (and if they don’t appear on certain voyages, Havila will give you a free cruise).
But then Norway is beautiful all year round. Whenever you go, you’re sure to have an ice time.
Passengers can hear birdsong as the ship switches to batteries