Magical Malta
biennale. Until the end of May, visitors can take in the major celebration of art, heritage and culture, under the theme Bahar Abjad Imsagar taz-Zebbug, meaning White Sea Olive Groves.
Organisers say it is a “provocative artistic initiative inviting a rethink of global mindsets about art and society”, with the olive branches representing peace and harmony against the backdrop of the sparkling seas that surround them.
While the island’s population is just over half a million, when sunseekers arrive in their droves in high season, it swells. More than three million tourists visited in 2023.
Peak season can be crammed and, with the mercury sometimes hitting as high as 40C in July and August, a cooler and perhaps slightly less crowded trip either side of these periods is advisable.
The intention of the biennale, in perfect spring temperatures in the low to mid 20s, is to see a fusion of contemporary art with Malta’s rich heritage.
Some of the island’s best-known sites are stages for art and performances, while there are artistic films, interactive workshops and family friendly events.
I imagine visitors are in for a treat because I was wowed by how much Malta has to offer when I visited before the biennale began.
Leaving the quiet Maltese countryside behind, I explore the cobbled lanes of the ancient fortified cities of Valletta and Mdina.
It is no wonder films such as Napoleon and TV shows like Game Of Thrones have been shot here. The ancient limestone facades provide a breathtaking ready-made film set.
Among the legacies of occupation on the island, none is more visible than that of the grandly named Knights of St
John. Made up of noblemen from the most important families in Europe, the order ruled the island for 250 years.
A trip to St John’s Co-Cathedral (entrance ¤15/£13 per adult) is a feast for the eyes. Not one inch is left plain – the walls are covered in gold, the ceilings display intricate paintings, and the ground we walk upon is made up of marble tombstones laid in tribute to knights of the order.
I can now count myself among those to have seen the only Caravaggio masterpiece known to be signed, as the Italian artist’s famed The Beheading of St John the Baptist hangs in an oratory within the cathedral.
Mdina is another wondrous legacy of the Knights. Sometimes known as the Silent City, the name seems apt given that its population is thought to be fewer than 250.
As we weave through its narrow, winding lanes, our guide explains the design was created to foil attackers shooting arrows in years gone by.
Far from dodging danger, we enjoy a gentle stroll through this mix of medieval and baroque architecture, past a tea garden and through the square where St Paul’s Cathedral stands tall.
The Knights, an ancient Catholic order, certainly left their mark, with some five churches in this small city, as well as images of the Sacred Heart and Jesus’s mother Mary outside the doors on some of the homes we pass.
For history buffs there is an endless array of things to see, and no better way to start than hopping on the ferry to Gozo to check out temples which pre-date both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids.
Walking through the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ggantija Archaeological Park truly feels like a step back in time as we marvel at the huge limestone blocks and wonder how on earth people were able to move them into position back in 3600 BC.
For the best views of Gozo, the Citadel – an ancient fortified city in the middle of the island – is the place to go.
Our guide tells us that only a handful of people live in the Citadel now, but it was once a place which provided protection from invasion, with Gozitans – the name for island inhabitants – taking shelter within its thick walls when the bells tolled to warn of danger incoming.
Back on Malta, I take the chance to visit Vittoriosa, one of the Three Cities. Along with Senglea and Cospicua, this fortified town was founded by the Knights of the Order of St John in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Venice might have its gondolas but Malta is a strong rival with its dghajsa wooden water taxis, one of which takes us on the five-minute crossing from Valletta.
The surroundings are even more stunning from the water, as we pass
The island provides a ready-made set for shows like Game Of Thrones
across the small stretch, taking in the sights of the Grand Harbour. Previously used to take sailors from their ships, ours is powered by motor rather than oars and at just ¤2 (£1.70) one-way it is surprisingly cheap and, while short, is one of the highlights of my trip.
In contrast, 820ft above sea level, Dingli Cliffs on the western coast are the highest point on Malta.
After an hour’s drive to reach the site from Valletta, we are treated to stunning views of the sun-kissed water and terraced fields below.
The tiny 17th-century church of St Mary Magdalene perched on top opens just once a year for her feast day on July 22.
While our visit is short, to breathe in the fresh air and savour the blue sky and sea, I decide that on my next visit I’ll pack hiking boots to explore this fabulous coastline.