Ober the HILLS
Bavaria’s top areas for a ramble
FORGET the lederhosen – it’s a pair of walking boots you should be wearing in Bavaria.
I’d signed up to a Headwater walking holiday to get a real picture of the southern German state and see if there was more to it than foaming beer and oompah music.
For a first walk, and to find our legs, we chose the 10k ramble to Kloster Ettal, a magnificent Benedictine Abbey. It is a splendid example of the baroque and – surprise, surprise – the monks have their very own brewery.
The walk is a mixture of riverside, meadow and forest. The path through the woods was alive with birdsong, occasionally drowned out by my curses as I encountered another vindictive tree root.
The trail becomes a steady climb imb that had us puffing and panting ting before we emerged into the sunn to be greeted by a welcoming benchnch and fabulous views of the abbey. ey. Kloster Ettal is well worth a look,, as is the chance to try a welldeserved weizen wheat beer.
Oberammergau is well-servicedced by bus and train so for a secondnd walk of 15k, head for Staffelsee see Lake. Take the train to Murnau u to begin this lovely, easy ramble.
The path is varied along the lakeside through a nature reserveerve with fields of wild crocuses teemingming with birdlife. Despite an encounternter with a belligerent bull, this was our favourite walk. The trail ends in the village of Uffing, where a certain Mr Hitler was arrested in 1923 following the failed Munich coup.
There is a delightful hostelry by the landing stage from where you return to Murnau by boat.
The Hotel Feldmeier was our home from home for seven nights in Oberammergau, world famous for the Passion Play, which is performed every 10 years.
The large village is a gem surrounded by pastures and mountains – many of the buildings adorned with ornate frescoes.
Having experienced several Headwater trips, our expectations were high and Hotel Feldmeier did not disappoint. It was a cracker.
Rooms were spotless while cuisine and service excelled. Under the watchful eye of Sabine Feldmeier, guests feel immediately at home.
Sabine is queen of multitasking, whether she’s on reception, tending bar or serving dinner.
When you fancy a day off walking, the area is blessed with attractions. A 30-minute bus ride will introduce you to the eccentric world of King Ludwig II at Schloss Linderhof.
Thigh
Of all Ludwig’s dream-like homes, Linderhof was the only one he completed. The opulence is overwhelming – set in grandiose seclusion amid Italianate gardens.
He went overboard with his decor – a rich rococo, gold leaf theme. The piece de resistance is the Venus Grotto, an artificial cave complete with lake where Ludwig, dressed as Lohengrin from Wagner’s fairy tale opera, would be rowed across in a white swan-like boat. As you do.
Garmisch is the main town of the region and, being barely 12 miles from Oberammergau, really should be visited.
Bavaria is immensely proud of its heritage – the white and blue diamond flag is everywhere in this beautiful town.
More than 50 years ago the place was swarming with GIs, Sinatra ruled the airways and the frauleins turned your head.
Alas, my old haunts had become a chemist’s and florist. Still, it’s a super place, where we were lucky enough to catch a brass band as we drank Munich’s finest under the shade of a chestnut tree.
Our last night was spent in the good company of our fellow Headwater guests.
We put our feet up and reflected on the week. We’d been fortunate with the weather and everyone had a funny story to tell.
And there wasn’t a thigh-slapping oompah band in sight. FACTFILE: Headwater’s seven-night self-guided Bavarian walk costs from £953pp, including flights to Munich from Manchester, transfers and half board accommodation. Route notes and maps provided. Alternative flights are available from various UK airports. Headwater guests can also choose the self-drive option from the UK. Contact Headwater on 01606 828 515 or visit headwater.com.