Cy of RELIEF
Away from it all in Northern Cyprus
WHEN you’re stressed out and desperate to unwind, the Abbey of Peace sounds like a good starting point.
From the magnificent monastery ruins in the Bellapais mountain range in Northern Cyprus, you can gaze right down to the Kyrenia harbour.On the right kind of day, you can see all the way to Turkey.
The walls turn from sand-beige to glowing orange at sunset. When the sun sinks into the ocean and the mountainside becomes a contrast of fire and shadow, you know why English author Lawrence Durrell was so intoxicated with the place.
My friend Chloe and I stayed down the road i n Bellapais Monastery Village Hotel, on the Turkish side of the island. Escaping stressful jobs, we were in need of relaxation and fun.
Aside from temperatures in the 20s, we chose Bellapais to discover the home of the writer of Bitter Lemons of Cyprus. The book documents Durrell’s time in North Cyprus from 1953 to 1956, before Turkey invaded and the island was divided.
After working in Yugoslavia, he pined for a quiet life in the mountains of this divided island. His account of the political calamity is gripping – but the dramatic events didn’t stop him falling in love with it. Arriving at our hotel, we followed the porter to a bougainvillea-covered roof terrace overlooking the pool and coastline. Our room was nestled into the hillside – a sweet little terraced cabin with wooden interiors. Not your average hotel room and far more private.
Our first stop was the pool, which we had to ourselves. Armed with books and towels, we made a pact to stay there for the day, save for trips to the sauna and steam room.
The poolside restaurant has a butler service. With a large bottle of beer costing £ 2 you can enjoy opulence without feeling guilty.
After some serious lazing around we decided it was time to explore the island – said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite. Go North Cyprus arranged a hire car for us and we hit the road. You’ll be pleased to know they drive on the left.
Still a lesser known tourist destination, Northern Cyprus has all the amenities needed for a decent break yet prices are dirt cheap.
On a whim we picked a beach from the map and headed off through winding mountain roads.
Winding
Spotting a stunning viewpoint of the Five Finger Mountain, we stopped for a photo. When we arrived at Alagadi beach, a large stretch of sand was ours alone.
The town of Kyrenia was the perfect temperature in the late afternoon. The harbour, in a horseshoe bay, is a pleasant strolling ground. Tourists flock to the waterfront at sunset to dine on mezze, kofte and fresh fish.
We sat on the harbour rocks in the shadow of Kyrenia Castle and watched fishing boats bob about.
Nicosia, the island’s biggest city, is the last divided capital in the world. It was split into the southern Greek Cypriot and the northern Turkish Cypriot parts in 1963 after bitter clashes and bloodshed.
We took a half-day tour and found the Turkish side old-fashioned and full of shops selling bargains and cafes served Turkish coffee and natural carob. The mosque and the market square were the prettiest places. On the Greek side, back in the EU, things felt modern and slightly more expensive.
We couldn’t leave Northern Cyprus without making the pilgrimage to Durrell’s house and the Tree of Idleness. Legend has it that those who sit underneath it will become so relaxed they will not feel like going back to work.
Bathed in sunshine, watching heavy citrus fruit fall from the trees, we decided l egend, sometimes, isn’t far from the truth. FACTFILE: Packages, including flights from Gatwick, through gonorthcyprus.com cost from £690 for two people. Breakfast is included Bellapais Monastery Village along with transfers. To hire a car, go to pacific-rentals.com.