L T I P S V E R T

The question about Dubrovnik is, does it have too many?

The Croatian jewel that dazzled the great Romantic poet has become one of the Med’s most visited ports.

Dubrovnik’s old town is a celebrated medieval citadel, free of cars, whose massive defensive walls no attacker has ever breached.

Game of Thrones fans will recognise it as King’s Landing because many of Dubrovnik’s most eye-catching Gothic and Baroque spots have been used as locations by the extraordinary TV show.

A must for visitors is the 1.2 mile walk round the top of the walls, £18, with views taking in the time-worn monuments, terracotta rooftops and the crystal blue Adriatic.

The main street running through the town is Stradun – 330 yards of loveliness. At first you think you are walking on marble but it is the same white limestone as the walls, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.

Most of the notable sights and attractions are here or nearby. A three-night city break would be enough for most people if you are staying inside or near the walls.

Or, as this is one of Europe’s sunniest spots with a climate like its neighbour Italy, take a Croatian beach holiday and come into town for evenings or days out.

This is a welcoming, gifted nation bursting with fresh pride from its footballers’ great World Cup run.

I struck lucky with my hotel, the Valamar Dubrovnik President – right on the beach with great restaurants, spa and cracking views, especially at sunset.

The bus ride to the city walls takes ten minutes and the reception shop sells bus tickets for £1.

From May to October during the day the old town is crowded with trippers from cruise ships – up to four docking every 24 hours.

The website croatiatraveller.com tells you how many are in port so you can visit at the least busy times.

But even on a four-ship day the tour groups head back for their tea from around 4pm so the crowds IF you are being driven from or to the airport you will have some spectacular views above the bay and the old town from the winding coast road. Cameras ready. The region’s beaches have a lot of shale so take swimming footwear that help you deal with pebbles. Buy a three-day Dubrovnik card for £30 and you get entrance to the walls and most of the other museums plus six bus rides and numerous discounts. should thin out agreeably in the evening. I put this theory to the test by trying out two of the best bars in town – the Glam Cafe, which isn’t like it sounds, and D’vino, which like it sounds.

These are on opposite sides of the same street but, here’s the rub, the street is only three yards wide. That’s medieval cities for you.

Inside the Glam Cafe, with its list of craft beers, there is room for only about ten people standing.

D’vino is larger and more comfortable but only just.

Happily I was served within a minute at the Glam and enjoyed a bottle of Fortuna pale ale from the Dubrovnik Brewing Company.

Croatian wine is another treasure. I loved the reds made with the area’s plavac mali grape from wineries such as Saints Hills, who supply the town’s Paparazzo Steak House.

Among the whites, the local