ELTIPS AV R T

Silicon Valley and its workers have taken over, pushing up prices and threatening neighbourhoods.

But there are those fighting back for the city’s soul – or else riding the latest wave of change.

And at least the price tag for getting there has been slashed with new direct flights from budget airline Norwegian.

So with a bit of nouse, there are lots of ways of finding the heart of the city without breaking the bank.

Head to Boudin Bakery, which lays claim to being the oldest business in San Fran.

It bakes sourdough fresh every day, using dough cultivated from mother dough brought over from a bakery in France.

It boasts locations across the city but we went to the flagship Fisherman’s Wharf branch, which also has a museum focusing on the history of Boudin’s and the city, and gives you a sneak peak behind the scenes.

Fisherman’s Wharf is lively if a little too touristy. But from there you can take a boat and get a true sense of the city – the skyline, Alcatraz, the Golden Gate bridge.

Another way to get a feel for the bay, its history and nature is to walk up through Presidio Park. But back in the city, hit the culture trail. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is super-sized. Its layout means it never feels crowded and there are huge open spaces.

The permanent collection features a stunning range of artworks. Entry is £20.

But the city’s street art is just as impressive –

San Francisco is a huge canvas. We explored the Mission District through murals and graffiti with the help of

SF Wild Walking Tours.

This is the frontline in the battle over gentrification.

But at Al’s Place, the battle has been lost. And it is no bad thing.

This incredible restaurant in the Mission deserves its place in the Michelin guide. Particular favourites were the cracked cucumber served with peanut sauce and a beautiful fresh salad with whole baby lettuces and nasturtiums – we ate family style, all helping ourselves to dishes so no one missed out. This familystyle dining costs £62.

The Mission may be on the up, but post poshgrub we didn’t have to go far to find a proper dive. Dovre Club was full of smiling locals and we happily sank beers and played pool. Another neighbourhood not t o miss is Chinatown – covering 24 blocks, it’s the biggest outside Asia, and North America’s oldest.

We ate a delicious meal at R&G Lounge, which was visited by the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain on his TV programme.

A After wandering around its col colourful streets, have a drink or thr three at Li Po Lounge, which has aw a wonderfully seedy feel. It started out as a notorious nightclub in the

THE Ferry Plaza

Farmers’ Market in Sausalito takes place every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and is the perfect opportunity to stock up on fresh farm products and artisan foods.

In Chinatown, try the Chinese Mai Tai rum cocktails – but be warned, they’re deadly. I stuck to the local Anchor Steam beer.

AT Boudin Bakery, tuck into some typical chowder, served

in its own bread bowl. 1930s and has been a local hangout for many years, but it became well-known after it was “discovered” in 2012 by Bourdain and featured on his food and travel show.

Another area to miss at your peril is Sausalito, technically a different city rather than part of San Fran. It’s a short boat ride away, providing another opportunity to take in the bay and also to visit the Ferry Building – an icon on the waterfront.

The city may be full of very different neighbourhoods and communities, but one place they all come together is Oracle Park.

It’s been called “baseball’s perfect address”, home of the San Francisco Giants, and has a vintage charm and breathtaking views of the bay.

We watched t he Arizona Diamondbacks defeating the San Francisco Giants, but the home crowd seemed undaunted by the score. Fans spilled out on to the streets to find a bar to continue the commiserations.

New York may be the city th that never sleeps, but San Fr Francisco is the city that never st stops moving.

FA FACTFILE: Norwegian economy fa fares start at £169 one way or £2 £ 284 return, premium from £5 £519 one way or £959 return. Ro Rooms at the Hilton Parc 55 co cost from £75pp based on two sha sharing. See parc55hotel.com. Ro Rooms at the Hilton Union Sq Square cost from £82pp. See hilt hiltonsanfranciscohotel.com.