ELTIPS AV R T

I’d glide sedately past vertiginous vineyards and fairytale castles, listening to Strauss and occasionally nibbling on a bit of bratwurst.

Yet here I was pushing a bike up a steep cobbled street after an invigorating cycle ride as my cheery Croatian guide recited catchphrases from ’Allo ’Allo and Only Fools and Horses. But, listen very carefully, I shall say this only once – it was absolutely lovely jubbly.

And just one of the unexpected delights on a cruise which did, of course, included plenty of sedate gliding, wine and sausage.

We joined a Shearings Holidays idays Highlights of the Danube river cruise aboard the lovely A- Rosa Donna. The full seven-night cruise uise starts in Engelhartszell, Austria ria – following coach or rail travel l from pick up points around the

UK – and sails to Vienna then Esztergom, Hungary.

But we flew to Budapest, where ere the newly refurbished Donna na turns round and returns to Engelhartszell stopping at differferent cities en route.

A city tour of Budapest is s included in the holiday package ge so don’t miss St Stephen’s Basilica, ilica,

Buda Castle and the incredible Fisherman’s Bastion with amazing views of the parliament buildings.

We also took a bus into the Hungarian hinterland – the puszta – to visit a traditional ranch and watch skilled csikós horsemen perform an equestrian show.

Next stop was Bratislava and we set sail at sunset, waving at locals on the river bank as the Donna slipped out of the city. After a delicious dinner – the food is incredible – I slept soundly in my spacious and comfortable cabin and woke up next morning in the Slovakian capital.

I knew nothing about tiny Bratislava so a three-hour cycle tour was perfect – and great fun as it was led by Brani, the Donna’s fitness instructor with a penchant for 80s British sitcoms. It took in beautiful parks, St Martin’s Cathedral, the Castle and historic old town, with a stop for a delicious ice cream and more Del Boy and René gags.

After sailing overnight again we were up on deck early to enjoy the journey through the Wachau Valley, a Unesco world heritage site.

There were vineyards, fortresses and gorgeous villages at every meandering t urn and t he breathtaking views showed why the Danube is known as the Queen of Rivers. Europe’s second longest waterway starts its 1,770mile journey in Germany’s Black Forest and runs through the spectacular scenery of ten nations. Our next stop was Melk, in Austria, where we visited the fascinating and ornate 18th century Benedictine Abbey.

Back on board I went to work off som some of the Donna’s delicious

dumplings up g and

TRY some of the tasty apricot dumplings while drinking a stiff Barackpálinka apricot brandy or a schnapps.

BRING home some of the amazing “vitality bread” and spice mixes which are made by the Donna’s excellent head chef, Norbert.

ENJOY an evening with brilliant local musician Tamas Seres who plays regional classics and

modern hits on his violin. kuchen – cake to you and me – in the gym before treating myself to an aromatherapy massage in the excellent spa.

There’s a pool and a Jacuzzi on the sun deck and I absolutely loved the ship’s sauna. It has massive oneway panoramic windows so you can relax and take in the view.

That night we enjoyed a special five-course tasting menu with paired wines. The guinea fowl consommé with dumplings was exceptional as was the local char, a type of fish, and Austrian beef tenderloin.

Afterwards the friendly crew held a farewell party in the ship’s lounge.

Shearings customers also got to thank the wonderful Chris – their dedicated onboard cruise manager. As we set sail back to Engelhartszell I went up on deck and lay under a blanket on a sun lounger staring up at the starlit sky.

I had a glass of wine in my hand an and was humming that famous tune by Johann Strauss II – “An der sch schönen blauen Donau.”

B Because my waltz down the be beautiful blue Danube had been a rea real hit.

FACTFILE FA 12-day cruise in May 2020, fro from £1,589pp, based on two sharing, inc includes return coach travel, seven nig nights a/i on A-rosa Donna, city tours in Vienna and Budapest, overnight sta stays in France, Belgium and Ge Germany. See Shearings Holidays, 03 0344 874 8220, shearings.com.