History lesson
Josh Sandiford immerses himself in the culture and rural idyll of County Armagh
Fancy a dive into the rich history of Northern Ireland? County Armagh may be small in size, but it’s a treasure trove brimming with fascinating stories, thanks to its ancient associations and mysterious myths and legends.
Our journey began just two miles from Armagh city centre, at one of Ireland’s most important archaeological sites.
Navan Fort, known as Emain Macha, is the earliest capital of Ulster and ancient seat of kings. Visitors are invited to rewind 2,000 years for a unique immersive experience, complete with performers playing a resident warrior clan.
At the Iron Age dwelling, we met the ‘Celts’ going about their daily lives and saw how they ate, dressed and even prepared for battle. This eye-opening jaunt back in time left us eager to discover what such an absorbing place has to offer today.
Armagh city is a 50-minute drive from Belfast past rolling hills that lift the spirits on a bright spring morning.
With its links to St Patrick, it is steeped in history. But while notably home to two cathedrals named after the patron saint, it is also a shopping hub buzzing with independent boutiques and eateries.
Here we met tour guide Donna Fox, a local with extensive knowledge of Armagh and its people. She brought the county to life and introduced us to Archbishop Richard Robinson, a name that would crop up a lot on this trip. Known as the builder of Armagh and the city’s second founder after St Patrick, the Archbishop ordered the creation of the handsome Georgian buildings that give the city its character.
We thoroughly enjoyed strolling up and down its hilly streets taking in murals, museums and monuments. We dropped in on famed Diocesan Registry at No 5 Vicars’ Hill, the historic Hole in the Wall pub which used to be the site of a jail, and even the local theatre as an Elvis tribute warmed up.
Legs aching after an early start, we were delighted to call luxury country retreat Blackwell House our home for two nights.
Run by husband and wife duo Steve and Joyce, the award-winning guest house near the village of Scarva is both intimate and lavish. We settled into one of six stunning bedrooms and were later served an outstanding five-course tasting dinner.
We didn’t wake hungry but still cleaned our breakfast plates as a mouthwatering Ulster fry-up settled us into day two. It wouldn’t be our last encounter with soda bread cooked on an old-school griddle.
And there was no better start to a sunny Saturday morning than a tour of
Long Meadow Farm, another family-owned business full of charm and character.
Armagh is fondly known as Ireland’s Orchard County, where apples have grown for many years. With its hand-crafted cider, pure apple juice and hearty vinegar, Long Meadow provided a captivating introduction to the Bramley-laden legacy of Armagh (though other varieties are available).
Then the famous griddle made another appearance. Farm boss Catherine explained the family had branched out into cooking demos – showing visitors how to whip up delicious bread in their own home.
Filled to the brim with soda farls, we skipped lunch and dived back into Armagh’s dynamic history – where the omnipresent Robinson sprung up once again.
This time it was at Armagh Observatory, home to the oldest telescope in Ireland and another part of the Archbishop’s footprint. We wandered around the planetarium next door and found ourselves in awe alongside dozens of children enjoying a day out at the museum. We rounded off the weekend with a visit to the Grade II Crannagael House and a walk around its stately grounds.
As we admired the eye-catching apple blossom, our trip found a way of joining the dots once again. We learnt that John, the owner of the house, is the great-grandchild of Henry Joseph Nicholson, a local man who imported the first Bramley seedlings from Nottinghamshire.
The rest, as they say, is history. And while the story of Armagh is complex, the county today is one of breathtaking sights, delicious food and a spirit that really sticks in the mind.
The city of Armagh is home to not one but two St Patrick cathedrals