Tower and the glory
Simon Green gets on his bike to explore uber-cool Toronto
There’s an energetic buzz about Canada’s capital of cool. Priding itself on being the country’s most diverse city, Toronto’s citizens come from 230 countries around the world and speak 140 different languages. Having preserved its industrial past, it is marching forward with its free-thinking attitudes, thriving food scene and big-draw attractions. Plus there is art to seek out, markets to mooch about in and a string of offshore islands to explore. A cycling tour of downtown, taking in some of its famous sights, unique neighbourhoods and culinary highlights is a great way to start a city break. Although jumping on a bike in a foreign city feels a little daunting at first, tour guide Terrence from Toronto Bike Tours puts all the wobbly riders at ease within minutes. We pedal through Chinatown, the bohemian Kensington Market with its cool indie shops and vintage boutiques and past City Hall before reaching the financial district with its looming structures.
Terrence points out one building that was made famous as the reception for hit legal drama Suits starring Meghan Markle, before revealing how hundreds of films and TV shows are filmed in Toronto for its ability to imitate cities such as New York and Boston.
We pedal on into the Distillery District, a collection of beautiful 19th century brickwork buildings that once housed the biggest distillery in the world but are now filled with some fantastic shops.
Then we reach the vast waterfront of Lake Ontario, one of the five Great Lakes of North America, where yachts are bobbing on the gentle waves. Over the water is New York State and the border between Canada and the US meets in the middle of the lake.
On the last leg of the tour, the giant spike of the CN Tower, once the tallest building in the world at 1,815ft, comes into view. CN refers to Canadian National, the railway company that built the tower, which was completed in 1976. Adult tickets to the top are £29, or book in for a memorable dinner at
its 360-degree restaurant. The terrifying Edgewalk, the world’s highest hands-free external walk on a building, is only for the very brave.
Having worked up a sweat, we stop for lunch at Ration on Queen Street West where we sample a collection of contemporary dishes which change with the seasons, all sourced from the Ontario region, paired with delicious orange wine ( £90, torontobicycletours.com).
Toronto’s vibrant street art is on display just around the corner in
Graffiti Alley on Rush Street. As we walk down the backstreet an explosion of colour greets us from both sides. The extraordinarily detailed images tell the story of this diverse city and its roots. Adorable yellow birds, the signature of local street artist Uber5000, crop up across most of the walls and as well as around the city.
A 10-minute ferry from the Harbourfront, a destination in itself with parks, galleries and theatres, takes you to the Toronto Islands, a chain of 15 islands popular during the summer season thanks to their beaches and attractions.
We head to Toronto Island SUP, a five-minute walk from the ferry drop-off on Ward’s Island, and get suited up for a paddle boarding tour of the area. The calm waters of Lake Ontario and expertise offered by our guide mean even the most novice of boarders are able to find their feet.
I am amazed by the near silence and natural beauty of the islands as we paddle down an inlet. It feels a million miles from the bustle of the city we’ve just come from. Then when we turn the corner into Toronto Inner Harbour there is a spectacular view of the city skyline.
The ominous-sounding Snake Island, where the forest has been allowed to grow and meet the ever-narrowing river, is another sight during the tour. Thankfully, there are no 15ft anacondas
Edgewalk, the world’s highest hands-free walk, is only for the brave
but we do spot adorable turtles perching on driftwood. Just up ahead a beaver is building its dam but it disappears from sight before we reach it (£45, torontoislandsup.com).
When our brilliant paddle boarding experience comes to an end, we pop into Island Cafe where I sample the Canadian speciality of butter tart.
But no trip to Canada would be complete without tasting one of its most famous exports, maple syrup, in all its glory at breakfast. The popular cafe Mildred’s Temple Kitchen in the Liberty District, serves gigantic stacks of thick, fluffy pancakes drizzled in the golden sugary delight and topped with blueberry compote and cream – guaranteed to satisfy your sweet tooth for the day.
The true heart of Toronto’s food scene however lies in Kensington Market, which brings together the city’s famously diverse population to create a wonderfully eclectic mix of independent eateries.
Taking a food tour around the streets with guide Felicia, from Chopsticks + Forks tours, we come across an enticing Jamaican/italian fusion counter – aptly named Rasta Pasta – which offers delicacies such as jerk chicken lasagne and dreadlock pasta with spicy sauce and meatballs. There’s a popular Hungarian-thai restaurant here too.
We also stop off for a Jamaican patty that is devoured within seconds, get some dumplings from a Tibetan cafe and even get a taste of home with good old fashioned fish and chips.
On the fourth Sunday of every month, the streets close off to cars for ‘Pedestrian Sundays’ – when the market comes to life with visitors filling the roads throughout the day.
As we walk through the neighbourhood, weaving through market stalls, live music from all different cultures drifts through the air (£71, chopsticksandforks.com).
I take a slow walk back to 1 Hotel Toronto – my home for the trip – a sustainable urban retreat in King West Village, a former industrial area turned nighttime hotspot with ritzy restaurants and rooftop patios.
Floor-to-ceiling windows beautifully frame shimmering Lake Ontario, and with boulders and trees outside it almost mimics a beachfront property’s view.
I head up to the spectacular rooftop infinity pool where I relax on a sunbed and look out on the city I have so enjoyed getting to know.
With my feet up and cocktail in hand, there is no better way to unwind after this exciting adventure.