Goodies & badis
Outdoor swimmer takes the plunge in Zurich
Rebecca Burns
My love affair with outdoor swimming began two years ago, a positive consequence of the many lockdowns. My love affair with Zurich begins within minutes of learning the city is home to 18 outdoor bathing spots, all offering crystal-clear warm water against a stunning backdrop of the Alps.
It’s my first foray into the world of swim holidays and the Swiss city has quite the pedigree for outdoor bathing. Its first lido, Frauenbad Stadthausquai (around £6, zuerich-com) on the Limmat opened its doors in 1837. With its wooden bathing hut on stilts, striped curtains, banana plants and views of guildhalls, medieval clock towers and the Lindt chocolate factory, it is a nouveau gem.
As the name suggests, it’s for women only, and regulars carry the moniker “cervelat girls”, in reference to the browned skin of the grilled national sausage. A sign tells you the water is a glorious 24C.
It’s easy to see why you would set up residence here. There’s an enclosed 100ft pool with a lane for swimming, another for chatting, and a second deeper river pool for more serious swimmers with fantastic views of the old town. It has a cafe and a small library of books. By night, it transforms into the Barfussbar – or Barefoot Bar – when men are welcomed.
A male-only free swim facility can be found at the Männerbad
Schanzengraben, which dates back to 1864, while the Tiefenbrunnen (Around £7) swimming beach is a hit with families thanks to its kids’ pool and diving boards.
But by far the most exhilarating badi (public bath) is the Flussbad Unterer Letten – a free facility, which is a bonus in a city renowned for being expensive (think £10 for a cheese roll in the Swiss equivalent of a Co-op).
It is popular with locals, although with its fast current it’s particularly appealing to the daredevil younger crowd.
A bearded chap is balancing precariously on the railings of the bridge, preparing to launch himself into the glass-like waters some 15-18ft below. This mode of entry does not appeal to me – I prefer the 10ft diving platform.
Once in the water, I am carried downstream at quite a pace and, alongside a few fellow swimmers, I attempt to swim against the fast flow. It’s good exercise and a challenge, if not remotely achievable. An even greater challenge is avoiding slamming into the railings at the end.
It’s nature’s version of the rapids at Center Parcs – if you know, you know! Inevitably, I gain some bruises but it doesn’t stop me going 10 rounds. The allure of a cold drink and bite to eat is the only real reason to leave.
And what better way to fill up than with cheese. Raclettes and fondues are a staple in the more traditional restaurants. At the Restaurant Chuchi on Rosengasse I opt for a Swiss take on mac ’n’ cheese – an odd but surprisingly enjoyable combo of pasta and potatoes in gooey cheese with a side helping of apple sauce.
If swimming isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other activities on the water. A must-buy is the Zurich Card city pass (zuerich.com/en/zurichcard). Rather like a London Travelcard, it gives you access to all public transport – tram, bus, train, boat and cableway. A 24-hour pass costs around £24; a 72-hour pass £41.
The 55-minute lake cruise takes you past billionaires’ row – a range of stunning modern glass-fronted properties with their own jetties and requisite Porsches and Mercs. This is, after all, the city of wealthy bankers.
For the more active traveller, there’s stand-up paddleboarding. Despite the teenager owning one, I’ve never braved it. The lake is pretty flat, which is a bonus for a first-timer. Seebad Enge (£7, seebadenge.ch) is pleasantly busy with people reading and chilling by the enclosed pool. I wade out on my knees, careful to avoid the swimmers before slicing through the water and taking in the red-roofed alpine houses and mountains.
Any hope of enjoying the view is lost as I endeavour to stand. The hour-long session has me wobbling round in circles, my eyes firmly fixed on my feet to keep my balance. By the
end my calf muscles are screaming but I return triumphant, vowing to take up the sport at home.
As my stay comes to an end, there’s time for an early morning dip at Seebad Utoquai (around £7) opposite my hotel. A popular haunt with 30-somethings, you can swim to rafts anchored in the lake around 100ft away.
Each morning, scores of swimmers take to the water as dawn breaks. Orange tow floats bob as they swim just under a mile to the other side and back before work.
It’s a rite of passage for visitors to the city and the perfect way to end my stay.