It’s hall in the detail at manor house hotel’s restaurant
Crunching along the gravel path towards the stone entrance flanked by Georgian pillars and festooned with trailing ivy, you can’t help but get swept up in the grandeur of Doxford Hall Hotel.
Originally built in 1818, with sympathetic additions over the years, it retains the kind of manor house opulence you just don’t get anymore with its high ceilings, chandeliers, marble fireplaces, wood-panelled reception hall, oak staircase and 36 bedrooms with acres of space – features which have helped it become the only hotel in the county to hold AA's coveted four red stars.
Master joiner George Runciman, who spent 13 years crafting the woodwork at the site, lends his name to the restaurant. It’s a handsome room with heavy mahogany panels. While the room is traditional in style, the menu is a modern affair which thinks more outside of the box.
The menu, by head chef David Quinn, is a well thought-out selection of dishes that change to reflect the season and locally-sourced produce available from suppliers such as Swallows of Seahouses and Doddingtons Dairy.
Starters are a real ode to the wilds of Northumberland, with options such as Northumbrian lamb consommé, pan roasted breast of wood pigeon and potted Eyemouth crab.
After a round of canapés, which were a great touch, I chose another British dish to start, which also had a touch of Indian inspiration: pan seared king scallops, the priciest option at £15.95. The silky scallops and their light nuance worked well with the denser texture of the black pudding bhaji, the latter’s heavy flavour complemented with cauliflower and a zing of mango chutney and coriander.
Local flavours flow through the mains too with choices such as Pave of North Sea turbot and slow cooked cheek of aged Northumbrian beef. My dish’s journey from field to plate was as short as it could get: seared loin of local estate venison (£27.95). It’s pricey, but it’s one that reflects the surroundings and quality of food. There was real imagination in the pudding too. I don’t have a sweet tooth, but the savouryesque baked spiced pumpkin cheesecake (£8.95) is the kind of dessert I’ve needed in my life. The velvety cheescake was perfectly executed, punctuated with the crunch of maples and pecans.