Athens, ancient and modern
Jonjo Maudsley finds cool pursuits in the Greek capital
Iam at the Gatsby hotel, an audacious new fivestar property evoking the hedonistic spirit that defined 1920s America. So what is it doing here, in the heart of Athens, the literal and metaphorical other side of the world to F. Scott Fitzgerald’s West Egg? It is, I discover, right at home. Yes, Athens is bathed in history but it’s also a living, breathing community. In the shadow of the Acropolis, trendy shops, bars and restaurants are forging a new name for the city.
The Gatsby, in a 1930s building, previously a jeweller’s, then the headquarters of the secret police, retains much of the mystery its previous inhabitants left behind, updated with art deco flourishes. It’s what Athens has needed for many years: a stylish centrepiece from which travellers can discover the alternative side to this thriving metropolis. And why not? Selfexpression is the name of the game in modern Athens. I discover this on my first night on a tour with Alternative Athens, starting in the thriving working-class district of Gazi, home of the city’s most prized street art. Next, we stop in Kerameikos to admire the striking modernist architecture.
And finally, we head for a drink at Kalimeres in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Psiri, where guide Nikos explains his vision. “We want to show off the undiscovered side of tourism in Greece,” he says. “To encourage people to look beyond the Acropolis and discover Greek culture through urban exploration.” On my way back to the hotel, I detour via Noel Bar, a Burlesque-y late-night spot with a subversive Catholic art theme, where people literally dance out of the doorway. The next morning, I’m greeted by Nikos’ colleague Vassia. She is here to take me on a tour of the Acropolis. Mythology and sightseeing are the pillars of the Greek travel experience, but there is one more aspect of my trip begging to be explored: food. I head for the Monastiraki neighbourhood, Athens’s hustlybustly urban core and an area fast becoming known for its street food. Right now, Hasapika is the place to be. Owner Spiros explains: “We find the best cooks, they cook their own food, we serve it as one meal.” I get to try oysters, Greek feta salad, crayfish ravioli, mussels in mustard sauce and a whole platter of fresh sushi, all in one sitting – washed down, of course, with ouzo.
Then to Birdman, which styles itself after a Japanese kissa bar, with music belting out and a wide selection of sake to sup on.
The food is almost too good for words. I warm up with sumptuous cuts of ichibo nigiri, then follow up with the Smash burger.
On my way home, there’s just enough time for a last drink at Athens’ very own Speakeasy bar. Look for the unremarkable door two numbers up from the Gatsby. Ring the bell, then smile to the camera. The door swings open, leading you down a secret staircase behind a café where you’ll discover cocktails that’ll make you wish you’d lived through the Roaring Twenties.
How to plan your trip
Gatsbyathens.com offers stays from £150 based on two people sharing on a B&B basis.