Food worth talking about
You know a meal is good when you’re all still talking about it the next day. Such was the case on our group chat after a Saturday night out at Träkol. We’d booked well advance for a birthday night out, and it’s best to do so at this riverside restaurant that’s got everyone talking – with good reason. All too often restaurant reviews can be laced with hyperbole, but this is a place that’s very deserving of the hype and the national plaudits, including a mention in the Michelin Guide 2022.
First off, there’s the setting in the shadow of the famous Tyne Bridge within the By The River Brew shipping container complex, which offers a laidback atmosphere as you sup your pints with views of the river as it meanders through Newcastle and
Gateshead. (It’s worth noting, you don’t need to book for the tap terrace if you’re just after al fresco drinks)
Through to the restaurant, there’s a Scandi, stripped back aesthetic that blends well with the arching lines of the faded green steel bridge outside. Think stripped back, natural tables, satisfyingly chunky pottery plates, low lighting, parquet flooring and windows into the kitchen where you can see the magic happening and the flickering flames of the charcoal grill. (The name Träkol is Swedish for charcoal)
The menu is informed by the seasons, so changes regularly, and is a kaleidoscopic blend of small plates and feasting plates fit for vikings including half a pig’s head, chop and pork belly, black pudding, sauerkraut and apple salad (£75).
On our visit, the menu in
cluded crispy pigs tails with mission spice (£5); Lindisfarne oysters topped with chilli vinegar or Montgomery’s Cheddar and beef garum (£4); malt glazed shiitakes with ash baked beetroots, hazelnut butter and chives (£9); grilled mackerel, courgette, pickled mussel and sea vegetable salad (£22); 400g aged sirloin on the bone, roasted bone marrow and fried fermented potatoes (£34) and more.
We chose a pick ‘n’ mix for the table. Hard to pick a favourite, but the octopus and lobster ceviche with tomatoes, cucumber, mint and jalapeño (£15) was an intoxicating medley of flavours: vibrant, fresh and ever so moreish.
The malt glazed shiitakes with ash baked beetroots, hazelnut butter and chives was another example of great produce used to great effect, where the natural flavours are given room to shine.
Even the humble side dishes held their own. I don’t think the rest of the table got a look in as
I devoured the padron peppers (£4.50) and fried fermented potatoes (£4.50).
Special mention too for the sourdough, served with a whipped herb butter I could have eaten by the spoonful (£4.50). It’s the kind of bread good enough to tear into without any gussying up, but I slathered it in the butter nonetheless.
Fancy trying some at home? The bread is made by Sunderland bakery Bread&, based at
The BIC, Hylton Riverside, who supply to some of top restaurants and cafes in the area. Make sure to visit their artisan bakery shop from noon to 2.30pm Wednesday to Friday, where you can pick up some of their freshly-baked treats.
To echo the quality of the food, our server was attentive (but not too in your face) and really knowledgeable of the dishes she was serving.
‘Even the humble side
dishes held their own’